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Aussie Girls at Chipette Rock: A Crisp Trad Climb in Durango, Colorado

Durango, Colorado United States
trad crack
single pitch
roof start
loose rock caution
moderate difficulty
Durango climbing
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Aussie Girls
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Aussie Girls offers a single-pitch trad climb on Chipette Rock with two approachable starts beneath a bold roof. This route suits climbers eager for concise challenges and secure placements in scenic Durango terrain."

Aussie Girls at Chipette Rock: A Crisp Trad Climb in Durango, Colorado

Aussie Girls presents a compact but engaging trad climb that packs classic Durango grit and character into a single pitch of approximately 40 feet. Found at Chipette Rock along Junction Creek, this route offers two distinct start options that immediately test your movement and gear management skills. The first, Aussie Left, invites you beneath a prominent roof where broad holds and a horizontal crack lead upward and right, culminating at a comfortable ledge. This variation requires deliberate body positioning and thoughtful gear placement amid the roof’s overhang, rewarding climbers with smooth, confident moves and a real sense of momentum over the bulge.

Alternatively, Aussie Right challenges climbers with a flaring, awkward crack wedged beneath the same roof. The crack’s width demands careful technique and balance, while surrounding edges provide the necessary purchase to progress. After reaching the first ledge, a caution is warranted when stepping right over a loose block—the route then continues through solid, large holds to the next ledge, finishing at the anchor situated just off to the left at Brittany’s. This single-pitch route suits climbers stepping into mid-grade trad climbing, demanding good crack skills and calm judgment in navigating less-than-perfect terrain.

Situated at an elevation that frames views of the surrounding southwestern Colorado landscape, Chipette Rock is a quiet corner for those seeking straightforward but satisfying climbing away from busier crags nearby. The approach is short and contained, allowing you to conserve energy for the climb itself and shave off unnecessary time on the trail. Protection primarily consists of cams and wires, ideal for the series of horizontal and flaring cracks that characterize this climb. The rock features a reliable grip with moderate texture, but a handful of loose blocks and roof jumbles require a judicious eye.

For visitors aiming to make the most of their day, timing your climb is essential: the wall faces a direction that receives ample sun in the morning, warming the holds and easing the chill during cooler months. Summer afternoons might make it feel exposed, so early starts or late afternoon ascents are generally preferred. Be prepared with moderate footwear designed for crack climbing and bring an array of cams sized to fit medium to large crack widths. Hydrate well and pack layers, as the elevation and exposed setting can shift conditions rapidly.

Whether you favor the more direct, flowing movement of Aussie Left or the technical challenge of Aussie Right, this route offers an accessible step into Durango’s trad scene. Though short, it requires a measured approach that rewards climbers who appreciate grounded technique and solid gear placements over flashy moves and height. The sense of accomplishment from topping out at Chipette Rock and soaking in the quiet valley below is an essential part of the experience.

Climber Safety

Exercise caution around loose blocks, particularly at the ledge after the roof on Aussie Right. Thoroughly test handholds and footholds and avoid dislodging rock that could impact belayers below.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Start climbs early to benefit from morning sun warming the rock.

Bring a versatile rack covering medium-large cams and wires.

Check unstable blocks before committing to moves, especially on Aussie Right.

The approach is short but rocky; sturdy hiking shoes are recommended.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, Aussie Girls is approachable for intermediate trad climbers but involves deliberate gear placement and technical crack moves. The grade feels fair and consistent, without unexpected cruxes, making it a gentle introduction to roof crack climbing. Compared to other Durango routes, it offers a balanced challenge with straightforward but engaging moves.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack with cams and wires is needed. Medium to large cam sizes will secure horizontal and flaring cracks effectively. Watch for a loose block near the first ledge on Aussie Right when stepping right.

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Tags

trad crack
single pitch
roof start
loose rock caution
moderate difficulty
Durango climbing