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Army Route at Sheep's Nose: A Classic Trad Challenge on West Creek

Evergreen, Colorado United States
left-facing dihedral
multi-pitch
trad gear to 4 inches
slab climbing
runout
West Creek
Length: 400 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Army Route
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Army Route offers a crisp mix of crack and slab climbing across three pitches on Sheep’s Nose. With steady protection and a 5.9 rating, it’s an engaging trad climb in Colorado’s South Platte area that rewards solid footwork and calm gear placements."

Army Route at Sheep's Nose: A Classic Trad Challenge on West Creek

Army Route carves its presence into the rugged cliffs of Sheep's Nose, a commanding feature along West Creek in Colorado’s South Platte region. This three-pitch trad climb offers a straightforward yet compelling adventure, beginning with an inviting left-facing dihedral that sets the tone for a day of crack systems and slab climbing. Each pitch reveals a distinct character: the first pitch climbs a clean dihedral on the buttress’s left side with consistent holds that reward steady footwork and precise gear placement. The second pitch transitions to a slab that demands balance and mindfulness as you navigate past subtle cracks toward a narrow ledge. The final pitch pushes up a crack system until it dissipates, requiring a tactical move onto a 5.7 R slab to finalize the ascent and reach the summit area, where panoramic views of the South Platte valley unfold.

With around 400 feet of climbing, this route presents an accessible yet engaging climb for climbers comfortable with moderate crack climbing and slab technique. Protection calls for gear up to 4 inches, emphasizing careful placements in the dihedral cracks to maintain confidence on the exposed sections, especially along the slab. The route’s 5.9 rating fits well with its classic line, balancing steady moves with a brief runout section that adds an edge without venturing into outright risk.

Approach is straightforward but demands focus: hikers follow West Creek’s well-trodden trail, winding through pine groves and granite outcrops before the cliff band appears sharply against the horizon. The trail’s moderate incline and forest shade make for a pleasant approach, generally requiring 30 to 45 minutes from the parking area. The area’s latitude and longitude place it firmly within the South Platte watershed, known for clean air and open skies that stretch wide above the granite.

For climbers planning this route, timing your day with the sun’s path is critical. Army Route’s west-facing aspect means afternoon warmth can make the slab sticky, while mornings offer cooler conditions perfect for precise footwork. Seasonally, spring through early fall is ideal; the granite dries quickly after rain, but sudden thunderstorms in summer afternoons can pose a hazard. Always carry appropriate gear, layer for sudden weather shifts, and bring plenty of water.

Beyond the climb, the surrounding environment speaks with crisp mountain air and the steady murmur of West Creek below — a quiet companion nudging your adventure onward. The trail’s transition from shaded forest to open cliff base invites close attention to footing and gear, preparing climbers for the granite’s demanding texture. Descending after the climb typically involves walking off to the south along a vegetation-covered talus slope, where loose rock advises caution.

Army Route stands as a rewarding choice for those seeking a solid multi-pitch trad experience with classic crack climbing and slab moves in the heart of Colorado’s climbing landscape. The climb’s balanced challenge and accessible length create an outdoors objective that encourages skill-building alongside immersion in the environment’s rugged charm.

Climber Safety

The final slab pitch includes sections rated 5.7 R, where protection can be sparse. Careful route-finding and confident slab movement are critical to avoid runout falls. Loose rock can also present hazards on the approach and descent, so proceed cautiously.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length400 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy cooler slab conditions in the morning sun.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber for better grip on slab sections.

Hydrate well; the approach and climb can heat up quickly on sunny days.

Watch for loose rock near the base during the approach and descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:While rated 5.9, Army Route offers a solid 5.7 slab crux with runout sections that can test a climber’s nerves. The grade feels well earned for climbers unfamiliar with slab techniques but is manageable for those experienced in crack and slab variations. It sits comfortably alongside similar moderate trad climbs in the South Platte area, making it a worthwhile introduction to multi-pitch trad challenges.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack with protection sized to 4 inches is essential. The left-facing dihedrals offer reliable placements, but slab sections require steady footwork and confidence in runout spots. Prepare for a few runout moves on the last pitch.

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Tags

left-facing dihedral
multi-pitch
trad gear to 4 inches
slab climbing
runout
West Creek