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Aretenaphobia: A Crisp Sport Climb on Lonely Crags’ Sharp Edges

Okanagan, Canada
jug holds
arete
commitment move
bolted
single pitch
mid difficulty
Length: ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Aretenaphobia
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Aretenaphobia cuts a clean line along two prominent aretes at Lonely Crags. Featuring juggy holds that ease you into the climb before a committing move near the top, this single-pitch sport route offers a compact yet rewarding challenge favored by mid-level climbers craving precise footwork and control."

Aretenaphobia: A Crisp Sport Climb on Lonely Crags’ Sharp Edges

Rising from the striking contours of Lonely Crags, Aretenaphobia invites climbers into a brisk, focused ascent that threads two prominent aretes before converging with the finish of the classic Miss Carriage. This single-pitch sport route offers a dynamic sequence where textured jug holds dominate the first half, allowing climbers to settle into rhythm and confidence. As you move upward, the rock's character shifts subtly, demanding precision and commitment on a slightly bolder move near the top that tests both balance and mental focus. The wall's granite angles push your technique rather than raw power, making every reach and foot placement purposeful.

Situated in British Columbia's rugged Okanagan region, the route stands against a backdrop of broad vistas. Here, the rock gleams under shifting skies, and the alpine air carries the crisp scent of conifer groves nearby. The approach to Lonely Crags is straightforward yet rewarding—mildly rugged terrain guides adventurers swiftly to the base where the climb begins. While the bolted protection offers clear safety, the route’s character reminds you to stay sharp: the committing move is brief but demands respect and calm.

Aretenaphobia suits climbers who enjoy controlled movement over sheer difficulty, offering a solid 5.9 challenge with an accessible but engaging crux. Weather can turn crisp quickly in this region, so timing your climb for late spring through early fall ensures dry rock and comfortable temperatures. Light layering is recommended, alongside sturdy shoes that offer good edging and smearing capability on the rock’s subtle features.

Embrace the clarity of each hold, the whisper of wind along the ridges, and the steady pulse of exertion—the experience balances raw adventure with straightforward practicality. Whether making your first visit or returning for a sharper test, Aretenaphobia offers a concise but memorable climb framed by the quiet strength of Lonely Crags’ rugged landscape.

Climber Safety

Though bolted, the route’s key move near the top features small ledges and exposed positioning—maintain controlled movement and avoid rushing to reduce fall risk.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach trail is rocky but well-marked—allow 20 minutes from the parking area.

Climb during dry, warm conditions to avoid slick holds.

Light but sticky climbing shoes enhance grip on small edges.

Bring layers as afternoon winds can chill the upper sections.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating feels accurate with jug holds offering confidence early on, but the final committing move introduces a mental crux that raises the challenge without upping physical difficulty. Compared to nearby routes in Lone Crags, Aretenaphobia is approachable yet engaging for climbers stepping up from beginner grades.

Gear Requirements

Fully bolted anchors keep protection straightforward. Single quickdraw rack suffices; focus on footwork and balance over gear management.

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Tags

jug holds
arete
commitment move
bolted
single pitch
mid difficulty