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Arch Evader at Screeching Wall: A Compact Blast of Technical Sport Climbing

Penticton, Canada
sport climbing
technical start
roof crux
single pitch
juggy finish
stick clip recommended
British Columbia
Screeching Wall
Length: 75 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Arch Evader
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Arch Evader carves a crisp, technical line on the right edge of the Isis sector at Screeching Wall. Its compact 75-foot pitch challenges climbers with a precise crux, a dynamic roof, and a juggy headwall finish—ideal for those seeking a focused sport climb near Skaha, BC."

Arch Evader at Screeching Wall: A Compact Blast of Technical Sport Climbing

Arch Evader stakes its claim along the right edge of the Isis sector at Screeching Wall, offering climbers a sharp, focused expedition of technical prowess and dynamic movements. This single-pitch route stretches 75 feet, packing a concentrated burst of challenge into every move. The climb launches with a precise, demanding start that tests your ability to read subtle holds and maintain control—stick-clipping here is a wise choice if you’re operating near your limit to ensure a confident ascent from the get-go. As you ascend, the wall opens into a compelling face climb that mixes delicacy with power, leading your hands and feet through textured rock features that reward technical finesse.

Midway up, the route delivers its defining moment: navigating into a roof section that commands balance, tension, and well-timed clipping. This section calls for athleticism and an eye for efficient movement, as the proximity of retaining bolts demands calculated effort without sacrificing fluidity. Beyond the roof, you reach a headwall lined with generous jugs, providing a welcome chance to gather strength but the route insists on focus until the top-out, which remains a tricky finale demanding careful footwork and composure.

The rock’s surface presents a gritty texture that speaks to the Okanagan’s volcanic origins, offering solid friction under finger and toe. Bright sunlight during late morning and early afternoon casts clear shadows across the route, accentuating holds and edges for better visual legibility. The surrounding landscape dips into the greater Skaha region, where sun-dappled slopes meet open skies, infusing every move with a sense of open-air adventure.

Approach is straightforward though includes some quick navigation through forested trails within the Maternal Group sector; a brisk 15-20 minute walk from the parking area brings you to the base of Screeching Wall. The well-worn path is a steady incline with loose gravel sections, so sturdy shoes with good grip are a must. Carry enough water and plan your climb for midweek or early mornings on weekends, as the sector gains popularity during warmer months.

Protection consists of eight well-spaced bolts with ring anchors, making it a reliable sport climb where lead falls are minimized by solid gear placement. Climbing gear can remain relatively light, but a stick clip is strongly recommended for safely negotiating the initial moves. With only one pitch, this climb fits neatly into a half-day outing and offers ample time post-send to explore neighboring routes or enjoy Skaha’s lakefront environment.

Arch Evader's blend of technical cruxes and accessible headwall finish challenges climbers to balance precision with power. Whether you’re pushing your 5.11 limits or sharpening your sport climbing arsenal, this route rewards focus, movement economy, and a strategic approach to protection. It’s a sharp, rewarding pulse of rock in the greater Screeching Wall arena—direct, technical, and approachable for those ready to elevate their sport climbing experience in British Columbia.

Climber Safety

The initial moves are powerful and exposed—making a stick clip essential to avoid a dangerous ground fall. The top-out requires attention to footholds, as some edges are less pronounced. Loose gravel on approach trails calls for careful footing, especially in warm, dry conditions.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length75 feet

Local Tips

Use a stick clip for the first bolt to avoid risky falls at the start.

Wear shoes with good edging sensitivity to handle technical face moves.

Plan your climb for mid-morning to early afternoon for optimal lighting on the route.

Bring water and snacks—approach trails can be warm and gravelly.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.11a rating on Arch Evader aligns with its technical start and roof crux, which demand precise footwork and body positioning. While the route maintains a sustained challenge, the headwall finish on jugs offers a breather before a tricky, balance-focused top-out. The grade feels accurate, with no significant soft spots; climbers familiar with Okanagan sport routes will recognize the typical blend of technical face climbing and roof sequences.

Gear Requirements

Equipped with eight bolts capped by rings, the route supports solid lead climbing with ample protection. Given the technical nature of the start, carrying a stick clip is advised to safely negotiate the initial moves without risking a ground fall.

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Tags

sport climbing
technical start
roof crux
single pitch
juggy finish
stick clip recommended
British Columbia
Screeching Wall