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Anything But The Fast Lane

Elevenmile, Colorado United States
trad
roof
crack climbing
single pitch
pine shaded
Colorado
Backstreet Wall
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Anything But The Fast Lane
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A compact trad climb tucked behind a large pine in Elevenmile Canyon, inviting climbers to navigate a tricky roof and discontinuous cracks. This accessible single pitch blends technical footwork with solid gear placements, offering a precise and rewarding introduction to Colorado’s rugged granite."

Anything But The Fast Lane

Set in the rugged heart of Elevenmile Canyon, Colorado, Anything But The Fast Lane offers a straightforward yet engaging trad climb that demands attention and tactical gear placement. The route begins unobtrusively behind a towering pine, whose rough bark and evergreen needles seem to stand guard over the entrance. From this quiet starting point, climbers must pull over a distinct roof feature that challenges upper body strength and technique before progressing along a series of disconnected cracks. These discontinuous breaks in the rock require thoughtful movement and careful footwork as the climb veers left toward a two-bolt anchor perched above. The rock feels solid underhand holds and smoothed edges, shaded in places by the looming pines and bathed in filtered sunlight that shifts with the time of day.

Protection along this route demands precision and variety. Small stoppers and a range of cams from blue Alien sizes up through #3 Camalots provide the best security, with a sizable #3 Camalot placement available just off the deck to ease early runouts. Slings are essential for keeping the rope aligned and reducing drag, particularly on the traverse and near the anchor. While a 70-meter rope was used on documented ascents, a 60-meter rope generally suffices for the descent, making gear choices a critical part of trip planning.

The approach to Backstreet Wall is accessible though requires focus—hikers should anticipate uneven terrain and the scent of pine sap mingling with crisp mountain air. Climbers often find themselves accompanied by the soft whisper of the South Platte River downstream, a reminder of the broader wilderness that envelops this slice of Colorado. Though compact, the single pitch rewards steady movement and a balanced combination of power and finesse, appealing to trad climbers looking for a short, satisfying challenge that fits within a full day of canyon exploration.

For those plotting their time on Anything But The Fast Lane, consider arriving in the morning when the wall catches indirect sunlight and stays cool, preserving grip quality and comfort. Late afternoon can bring shadows that deepen the cracks but also cool the rock as temperatures drop. The descent is straightforward, involving a rappel to the ground, but slings and extra rappel gear are advisable to account for potential anchor wear and variable rope stretches.

Small groups and solo climbers will appreciate the quiet of Elevenmile Canyon, yet it’s wise to notify companions of climbing plans given the moderate isolation of the area. Bring layered clothing as weather conditions can shift quickly, and keep hydration a priority to maintain steady focus through that roof move and the delicate crack transitions. Whether you’re consolidating trad fundamentals or simply seeking a solid pitch to break into Colorado’s climbing scene, Anything But The Fast Lane delivers a measured dose of challenge with clear beta and a scenic, pine-scented surround.

Climber Safety

Watch for fragile rock near the roof section and ensure all gear placements are solid, especially those close to the start where runouts are more pronounced. Slings are recommended to keep the rope aligned and reduce wear on gear and rock.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Start behind the large pine to find the hidden roof feature.

Bring a variety of small to medium cams for secure placements.

Approach early in the day to avoid heat and optimize grip.

Use slings to minimize rope drag on traverses and at the anchor.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Graded 5.8, this route offers a moderate challenge that feels true to its rating with the roof move adding a distinct crux requiring well-placed protection and steady technique. The cracks are varied and somewhat intermittent, demanding thoughtful movement and foot placement. Compared to other single-pitch climbs in the area, it lands as approachable but with enough nuance to hold your focus.

Gear Requirements

Small stoppers and a set of cams from blue Alien up to #3 Camalot are essential, with a critical #3 Camalot placement available just off the deck. Slings help keep rope drag low. A 70m rope was used, but a 60m rope should suffice for rappel.

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Tags

trad
roof
crack climbing
single pitch
pine shaded
Colorado
Backstreet Wall