"A less crowded trad line in Lower Mother's Buttress, this 60-foot single pitch crack climb tests steady trad skills with a bold bulge at the top. Ideal for those seeking solid Unaweep granite and a break from popular routes."
In the less-traveled stretch of Lower Mother's Buttress, where granite walls rise with quiet authority above Unaweep Canyon, Another Unnamed Route offers a rewarding challenge for climbers eager to explore beyond the beaten path. This single-pitch trad climb winds through a deep, inviting crack system left of the more popular lines, delivering a combination of technical face moves and a distinctive bulge that tests your technique and nerve. The rock here demands respect—solid Unaweep granite that feels both textured and glassy underhand, challenging your footwork and balance with every move.
Starting just twenty feet left of a known chimney route, you’ll find yourself threading upward on clean slabs peppered with discreet handholds, the crack beckoning intermittently as a line of opportunity. Early placements allow you to protect the climb modestly before you approach the defining bulge—marked by a fixed wire—where the rock leans fiercely outward. This is where the route gets lively, requiring a commitment to step right past a sharp horn and onto a narrow ledge that feels perched above the canyon floor. From here, the bulge insists on precise body positioning to surmount it, fun and challenging without forcing overly strenuous moves.
At the top, the absence of bolts means you’re rewarded with a sense of earned adventure: a scramble off to the right that leads back down to the ledges below. While not a route for beginners, it suits intermediate climbers ready to step off the guidebook’s main radar and experience robust granite that offers diversity in movement and protection opportunities.
With only a single pitch and about 60 feet of vertical climbing, this route fits well into a half-day outing. The approach is approachable yet enveloped by the raw landscape of Grand Junction’s Unaweep Canyon, offering scenic views framed by sandstone ridges and distant mesas. This route excels in spring and fall when temperatures are moderate and the granite holds firm against morning dew. Hydration suggestions are simple—bring plenty, as shade is limited and the midday sun can warm the rock aggressively. Sturdy trad gear is key: a rack capable of fitting the deep crack and horn placements will keep you confident as you ascend.
Another Unnamed Route stands out not for its fame but for its straightforward, rugged character—a chance to climb granite that demands attention to detail without extravagant commitment. Perfect for climbers wanting to escape the crowds, it’s an invitation to engage with the rock on an honest level, with a meaningful vertical rhythm that rewards steady movement and gear savvy. Whether you’re pressing your skills or just tasting the quiet challenge of Mother’s Buttress, this climb offers clarity and satisfaction in equal measure.
The bulge features a fixed wire but no bolts; gear must be solid and well placed to ensure safety. Scrambling off the top ledge requires careful foot placement on loose rock—avoid this route during wet or icy conditions to reduce slip hazards.
Approach on well-marked trails but expect some loose scree near the base.
Plan your climb for morning or late afternoon to avoid the strong midday sun.
Water is scarce; bring adequate hydration given the exposed nature of the route.
Scramble down right at the top ledge instead of looking for a rappel.
A standard trad rack is suitable here, with an emphasis on gear that fits deep cracks and the occasional horn placement near the bulge. No fixed bolts are present apart from a single wire at the crux, so solid gear placement skills are essential.
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