"Tucked between established lines on Pine Cone Dome, Another Unknown Route offers a short but thoughtful trad climb in Elevenmile Canyon. Solid granite and precise placements make it ideal for climbers looking to sharpen trad skills while enjoying the canyon’s calm atmosphere."
Nestled within the rugged contours of Elevenmile Canyon lies Another Unknown Route, a modest but engaging trad climb that quietly calls to those seeking a straightforward crack experience off the beaten path. Located on Pine Cone Dome, this single-pitch climb offers climbers an unpretentious line wedged between two more established routes—Jolly Jugular’s unknown left variation and Don’t Go. The approach leads you through familiar pines and granite cliffs that shape the canyon’s distinctive character, setting a tone of rugged tranquility.
From the base, the climb begins with a decisive undercling flake that demands precise footwork and a steady grip, moving you upward through clean granite. The route aligns with a small crack system, protected mainly by small cams up to a #1 Camalot, punctuated by two bolts near where the route converges with its sport counterpart. The granite feels solid beneath your fingers, with the occasional seam offering an inviting rest or placement opportunity. Above, two bolts secure a convenient ledge anchor, making the belay spot comfortable and safe.
Despite the modest difficulty rating of 5.8, the climb holds a quiet complexity in reading the gear placements and maintaining balance on less obvious holds. The protection coverage requires experience with small cams and confidence in subtle placements, with draws needed for the sport bolts await at the crux area. Descending is straightforward with a single 60-meter rappel from the anchor, dropping safely back to the base.
For those who know the route’s neighbors well, Another Unknown Route provides a refreshing option when seeking a brief, manageable multi-style challenge that blends traditional protection with a short bolt-protected crux. Elevenmile Canyon’s surrounding landscape amplifies the experience with sharp air, changing sunlight, and the persistent whisper of the South Platte River below. The climb invites you to focus on technique and flow rather than overextended endurance, making it an ideal choice for climbers tuning their gear placements or easing into trad climbing in Colorado’s diverse climbing scene.
Planning your adventure here means preparing for a short but technical route: bring a selection of small cams to a #1 Camalot, a set of draws for the bolts, and a 60-meter rope for the safe rappel descent. The approach track to Pine Cone Dome is well-marked yet unpaved, so wear sturdy hiking shoes and carry water to stay hydrated amid the canyon’s shifting temperatures. Early mornings or late afternoons are best for avoiding the midday sun, especially in warmer months. While the rock is generally solid, the ledge anchor bolts are your friend—trust them and double-check your knots for a smooth descent.
Another Unknown Route may not headline Elevenmile Canyon guidebooks, but it holds a niche for the observant climber seeking a blend of trad technique and bolt-maintained security, all framed by the quiet power of Colorado’s granite walls.
Though the bolts on the anchor and near the crux are reliable, protection hinges on small cams—make sure your gear is sharp and confidently placed. The rappel requires a full 60-meter rope and attention to prevent rope drag or snagging in the crack system. Watch footing on the approach as loose debris can accumulate near the base.
Bring a good set of small cams, especially up to #1 Camalot for optimal protection.
Arrive early or late to avoid direct sun exposure on the dome during hot weather.
Double-check knots and anchor bolts before rappelling for a smooth descent.
Carry hydration and footwear suitable for a rocky, uneven approach trail.
Small cams to #1 Camalot are essential, complemented by two draws for the bolt section. Anchor includes two bolts on a ledge. A 60-meter rope is required for the rappel descent.
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