American Spirit stands as an engaging one-pitch trad climb set within the sprawling Upper Smoking Section of Sheeprock, close to the Goose Creek and Molly Gulch Campground areas. The route invites climbers to experience a balanced challenge on solid rock, presenting a blend of bolt-protected climbing and crack maneuvering that rewards methodical movement and clear-headed strategy.

Approaching the climb, the environment hums with the quiet energy of the Colorado outdoors: pine-scented air, crisp mountain breezes, and scattered sunlight filtering through the trees. The route opens on a straightforward path, where four bolts lead steadily to a secure ledge. Here, you engage a 24-inch runner before traversing right to line up with an inviting crack, protected efficiently by a #3 cam paired with another runner of equal length. The crack itself encourages a steady rhythm of jamming and laybacking, connecting you intimately to the rock’s texture.

Above the crack, a slab beckons — a slab that demands balance and attention as three bolts guide the way to the anchor. This pitch, rated 5.8, feels approachable but demands respect in footwork and gear placement. The rock’s subtly textured surface offers just enough friction to instill confidence without allowing complacency.

Protection on the first pitch is well thought out: a combination of bolts and traditional gear placements ranging from half-inch to #3 cams, with doubles in the smaller sizes recommended, or large wires for added security. Quickdraws and slings are essentials for efficient clipping and managing rope drag.

Climbers looking to extend the experience can continue onto a second pitch, departing the crack to climb a beautiful slab heading out right. This stretch is cleaner and more bolt-dependent, with four bolts leading to a two-bolt anchor about 50 feet above, rated slightly easier at 5.7. This pitch offers a perfect cooldown that still feels engaging.

The Upper Smoking Section delivers a classic Colorado climbing vibe — reliable rock, a sense of openness, and proximity to natural camping spots, making it a compelling addition to any climbing itinerary. The route’s moderate rating makes it appealing for intermediate climbers eager to build trad skills, while the solid bolt placements ease the mental burden often associated with gear placements on cracks.

When planning your trip, time your climb in late spring through early fall for dry, stable conditions. The east-facing wall catches morning light but shifts into shade by afternoon, offering a comfortable thermal range during summer. Footwear with sticky rubber and a pair of medium-sized cams will cover the necessary protection comfortably.

After topping out, the descent is straightforward via a single rappel down the route, with anchors equipped to handle standard rappel rings or cordelette. Be mindful of potential loose rock on the descent and secure your gear properly.

American Spirit is a strong candidate for those who seek a concise yet enriching climbing experience rich with natural features and logistical ease. It balances the thrill of trad climbing with practical considerations — a route that asks for respect but offers a rewarding dose of Colorado’s climbing charm in return.