"Alternate Ending invites climbers into 60 feet of precise, slopey slab climbing at Owens River Gorge’s Lower Gorge. With secure bolting and a sequence rich in pockets and irregular holds, this route offers a focused test of technique framed by wide desert vistas."
Situated in the rugged Lower Gorge of the Owens River, Alternate Ending offers a focused burst of climbing that hooks onto both technical finesse and bold movement. This single-pitch sport route delivers about 60 feet of slabby, slopey climbing punctuated by a rhythm of distinctive pockets and eyebrow-like holds that challenge your balance and footwork. The climb begins from a sturdy platform, sharing its initial bolts with the classic Cult Classic route before veering left into its own groove. Each move demands precise technique—there's no room for sloppy feet here—as the route demands a calm, steady pace to work through the irregular features that punctuate the wall.
Protected by nine well-placed bolts, Alternate Ending provides reassurance while letting the rock’s character dictate the flow of the ascent. Expect a subtle tension in the footholds that forces close attention, making this climb feel athletic yet approachable for those comfortable with slab climbing. The rock's texture has a dry, gritty appeal that gives tiresome friction, rewarding those who stay light on their toes.
Owens River Gorge itself is a cradle of high desert exposure, where the walls drink in the sun until late afternoon. The Lower Gorge area puts climbers in a striking landscape defined by sharp volcanic rock formations, framed by distant views of the eastern Sierra peaks and the Owens River winding below. The air is often crisp, broken by the call of mountain birds and the whisper of wind threads threading through narrow cracks.
For climbers planning a trip here, timing is everything. Morning approaches bring cooler temps and softer light on this west-facing wall, making early starts ideal in warmer months. Because the route is short but technical, a brief warm-up elsewhere followed by focused attempts on this climb maximizes efficiency. Footwear with sticky rubber and a commitment to precise edging will pay off handsomely here.
Accessing Alternate Ending requires a short, straightforward approach from the Lower Gorge parking area. The trail is a well-traversed path of firm dirt and scattered rocks, taking about 10 minutes to reach the climb’s base. Given the concentrated length of the route, gear can be light; aside from a standard sport climbing rack and quickdraws, chalk and a steady head will be your best allies.
While the rating sits at a modest 5.9, this route demands respect from climbers who expect slab climbing to be simple. Crux moves emerge where feet must trust the rock’s subtle texture, and hands negotiate the funky arrangement of pockets and edges. Climbers familiar with nearby Owens River Gorge lines like Cult Classic or Moonshine will notice Alternate Ending’s nuanced dance between secure bolt protection and natural flow.
Care for safety here means ensuring your shoes have excellent friction, due to the slopey nature of the rock that can feel slippery if not respected. The bolts are sharp and well maintained, but the climb’s relatively thin profile leaves little margin for error in foot placement. Weather conditions can shift quickly, so check forecasts before heading out, especially in shoulder seasons when afternoon winds pick up.
Descending is straightforward: after topping out, a single rappel or careful downclimb to the ledge is all that’s needed to return to the base. This simplicity complements the climb’s compact and technical character, making Alternate Ending a prime choice for those looking to add a polished slab project to their Owens River itinerary.
Due to the slopey, slabby nature of the climb, slipping is the primary hazard. Ensure your climbing shoes are in top condition with sticky rubber, and double-check bolts and anchors before leading. Loose rock is minimal near the route but watch footing on the access trail.
Start early to avoid the midday sun on the west-facing face.
Wear climbing shoes with excellent rubber for optimal grip on slabby holds.
Bring chalk to maintain dry hands on the slick pockets and edges.
Approach trail is short and straightforward, but watch for loose rocks near the base.
The climb features nine well-placed bolts galvanizing the technique-heavy slab moves. Standard sport rack with at least nine quickdraws and sticky shoes are recommended to handle the slopey texture and subtle holds.
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