"Addiction offers a concise, technical crack climb on solid Unaweep Granite, guiding you through hands and thin hands jams into a left-facing corner. This 50-foot trad route rewards precise placements and balanced stemming close to Grand Junction’s desert cliffs."
Addiction offers a focused and rewarding climb on the solid granite walls of Unaweep Canyon, carving out a technical 50-foot pitch that tests your hand jams and stemming technique. The route starts with hands and thin hands crack climbing that tightens into a distinct left-facing corner, inviting you to trust your footwork and balance as you ascend. The splitter crack runs clean and consistent, sliced sharply into the granite face, offering reliable placements but demanding precision. The corner’s natural angle opens up opportunities for stemming, creating a dynamic rhythm that punctuates the steady upward push.
This climb sits within the Frontside section of Smith Wall, part of the Main Canyon’s climbing corridor near Grand Junction, Colorado. The granite here is firm and crack-rich, rewarding careful gear placement and deliberate movement. Expect to navigate the rock’s texture, which is rough enough to feel secure but requires mindful hand positioning, especially on the thin hands sequences. The climb’s one pitch captures a pure trad experience, uncomplicated yet engaging, ideal for those seeking a short but crisp challenge.
Protection involves a well-chosen rack focusing on cams in the #1 to #3 range. The rock’s clean features allow for confident placements, and a two-bolt anchor tops the route, providing a safe and straightforward rap station. After sending the pitch, a 50-foot rappel southward delivers a quick and efficient descent.
Approach is practical and accessible, suitable for climbers who want to maximize climbing time without a long trek. The granite walls are exposed to ample sun, so morning or late afternoon climbs balance warmth and shade nicely, especially in Colorado’s drier seasons. This climb rewards a thoughtful pace and focused technique, perfectly blending the thrill of crack climbing with the landscape’s rugged serenity.
Addiction stands out as a compact but spirited climb for those looking to sharpen crack skills or add a solid 5.8 trad route to their tick list. It’s a straightforward adventure on rock that demands respect, rewarding careful placement and steady movement alike.
While the granite is generally solid, watch for occasional sharp edges in the thin crack areas that could damage rope or skin. The rappel anchor is fixed and reliable, but ensure your rappel setup is smooth since the descent heads south along a steep wall.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the exposed granite face.
Wear sticky-soled shoes that excel at crack climbing for optimal grip.
Bring gloves or tape your hands if you’re doing multiple laps to protect skin on thin jams.
Scout the rappel anchor before climbing to familiarize yourself with descent direction.
Bring a set of BD cams focusing on #1 through #3 sizes to secure placements in the splitter crack. Two-bolt anchor at the top allows for a 50-foot rappel to the south.
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