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A Bold New Plan - Direct: A Fierce Challenge in Bow Valley

Canmore, Alberta Canada
sport climbing
5.12a
single pitch
technical moves
vertical limestone
Bow Valley
Length: 70 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
A Bold New Plan - Direct
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A Bold New Plan - Direct is a one-pitch, 5.12a sport climb in Alberta’s Bow Valley that demands sharp technique and steady nerves. Featuring a bold start with a tough crux and limited rests, this route rewards climbers who seek precision and power on vertical limestone."

A Bold New Plan - Direct: A Fierce Challenge in Bow Valley

Set within the rugged contours of Alberta’s Bow Valley, A Bold New Plan - Direct slices through White Imperialist’s imposing face with a focused, uncompromising energy. This sport route offers a concentrated 70-foot push of technical climbing that demands precision and commitment from the first move. The approach places you in the shadow of jagged cliffs with the fresh mountain air carrying the faint murmur of Grassi Lakes below, while the limestone wall itself seems to dare you forward with its sharp edges and sparse holds.

From the start, the climb does not hesitate to test your grit. The initial bolt calls for a disciplined stick clip, setting the tone for the hard 5.12a crux just beyond. Here, climbers face a sequence of tough moves on holds that refuse to offer easy purchase — a gauntlet of desperate adjustments and calculated reach that funnels into the steadier terrain of the original route by the second bolt. It’s immediate, intense, and designed for those who want to slice through the technicality rather than ease into it.

Protection is straightforward but requires trust — seven bolts and solid anchors guard your line, but the spacing asks for confident clipping and composure during the crux. The wall’s vertical orientation catches the sun for much of the day, which can raise the limestone’s temperature, making early morning ascents highly advisable for optimal grip.

Beyond the physical demands, this climb connects you directly with the raw geography of Bow Valley. The fresh alpine breeze, the whisper of evergreens nearby, and glimpses of distant mountain peaks create a vivid sensory backdrop that holds you firmly in the present effort. Though short in length, the route’s intensity invites you to bring your sharpest focus.

Planning your attempt here means gearing up with sticky shoes sharp enough to manage minimal edges, taping fingers where the grips threaten to abrade, and coming prepared for quick clip transitions. Hydration and timing are key; the route’s directness on a sun-exposed wall makes midday pushes tough in warmer months. Parking and access walk are brief but should still be accounted for in your schedule to ensure energy is conserved for the climb itself.

A Bold New Plan - Direct offers a compact, high-stakes punch of sport climbing in one of Canada’s most compelling climbing zones. Whether you’re honing your technical edge or chasing that first 5.12a send, the route’s bold moves and mountain setting create a rewarding challenge that stakes its claim firmly in Bow Valley’s climbing scene.

Climber Safety

The first bolt is spaced enough to warrant a stick clip; neglecting this risks a dangerous fall on marginal holds. The rock is solid but the holds at the crux are small and sharp, so deliberate and careful movement here reduces the chance of slipping or skin damage.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Stick clip the first bolt to avoid risky falls early on.

Start early in the day to enjoy cooler rock temperatures and better friction.

Bring tape for fingers; small holds can be abrasive on skin.

Watch your clipping technique during the crux to maintain flow and safety.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.12a rating on this route is true to form, with a sustained crux immediately after the first bolt that ramps up the difficulty sharply. The holds are small and sometimes poor, demanding both precise footwork and strong body tension. Climbers familiar with Bow Valley’s limestone will find the grade consistent with other challenging single-pitch sport lines in the area, perhaps a bit on the stiff side due to the demanding first sequence.

Gear Requirements

Equipped with seven bolts and solid anchors, this line requires a reliable quickdraw rack and sticky shoes for minimal holds. Stick clipping the first bolt is recommended to stay safe during the bold opening moves.

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Tags

sport climbing
5.12a
single pitch
technical moves
vertical limestone
Bow Valley