Tucked within Other Mothers on Mother's Buttress, 84.1% Eclipse of the Heart offers a compact but dynamic sport climb that invites both newcomers and steady hands to test their movement on authentic Unaweep granite. With just five bolts over 60 feet, this route keeps its focus tight—inviting you to engage directly with the rock’s texture without overwhelming complexity. From the base, the granite’s solid surface feels reassuring under your fingertips, while the canyon's dry air whispers through the crevices, keeping you alert and centered.

The crux moment arrives near the third bolt, where a split decision shapes the climb's character. Opting to the right eases the technical demand but introduces a sense of exposure, as if the cliff edge itself is daring you to trust your balance. Veering left brings a stiffer sequence, requiring precise footwork and confident hand placements. Whichever path you choose, vigilance is key; past the last bolt, the rock loosens, a reminder that the line's quality tapers off beyond the anchor. This subtle drop in rock integrity makes the established anchor an important safety checkpoint rather than a gateway to a longer, riskier ascent.

Part of what gives this climb its story is the moment it was born—during the 2012 solar eclipse, a unique alignment of nature and human effort that inspired its name. A quirky detail but fitting: the climb captures a rare moment when light waned and shadows deepened, mirroring the measured focus you need on the route.

For those seeking a bit more challenge, a direct start variation offers a 5.9 grade climb, stemming from the corner beneath the third bolt. This alternate line demands sharper movements and invites climbers to rehearse the core of the route on toprope before taking the lead. A practical approach involves clipping the chains, lowering down, and ascending this direct start to the third bolt via toprope for a full taste of the route’s possibilities. It’s a worthwhile add-on that extends the experience without adding length.

Protection is straightforward here—a set of 5 quickdraws is sufficient to clip the bolts safely. The anchors stand robust but the stretch beyond requires prudence due to the rock’s natural wear. Planning your approach means arriving prepared for a short but intense climb framed by grand views of Unaweep Canyon’s rugged embrace. The trail to Other Mothers is manageable, allowing enough time to focus fully on the climb without an exhausting approach looming.

Timing your session is also critical; morning light hits the wall with gentle warmth before the afternoon sun pushes the shadows back. The granite holds heat well, so spring and fall bring optimal conditions, avoiding the harsh summer glare and winter chills. Remember that the area’s semi-arid climate calls for ample hydration and steady footing, especially on the approach path rich with loose scree.

Descent is simple: clip into the anchor chains and lower off carefully, keeping an eye out for any loose flakes near the edges. The surrounding landscape keeps the climber grounded—exposed but secure—reminding you that even brief climbs can carry full measures of adventure and active engagement with the natural world.

Whether you’re ticking off a new route or savoring a focused day on the rock, 84.1% Eclipse of the Heart offers a memorable shot of challenge wrapped in raw Colorado canyon ambiance. It’s a climb that rewards measured risk, clear eyes, and a steady grip, standing as a testament to the unique character of Unaweep granite.