HomeClimbing5.9 Crack aka Into the Void

5.9 Crack aka Into the Void at Lookout Mountain Crag

Golden, Colorado United States
slabby crack
roof pull
moderate protection
single pitch
colorado trad
beginner trad leader caution
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
5.9 Crack aka Into the Void
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Into the Void at Lookout Mountain Crag is a focused single-pitch trad climb that challenges with slab cracks and a bold roof section. A route for climbers ready to test technique and composure above moderate protection."

5.9 Crack aka Into the Void at Lookout Mountain Crag

Situated just off Lookout Mountain Road near Golden, Colorado, the 5.9 Crack, also known as "Into the Void," offers a compelling slice of trad climbing that blends straightforward crack technique with a touch of boldness. This single-pitch climb carves a distinctive line up a slabby face, marked by a series of moderate overlaps that challenge your ability to read the rock and manage protection carefully. Early in the climb, the crack presents a manageable groove inviting hands and feet to collaborate, while still demanding attention for foot placements on the slanting slabs. As you ascend, the route leads you towards a striking roof with a deep split, its jugs tempting and reliable, but not exactly beginner-friendly for lead climbers who might still be gauging their edge on trad gear and moves.

The rock’s texture here is rough but scrubbed smooth by time and traffic, providing solid friction that rewards precise footwork. Climbers often find themselves balancing between sustained crack climbing and strategic rests on small ledges and edges before committing to the roof pull, which can feel bold if you’re new to this type of protection or body positioning. The route’s moderate length of 60 feet keeps it accessible for a day of climbing without becoming an endurance test, but it demands concentration throughout. Gear requirements are light—a well-thought-out trad rack covers the necessary placements, allowing you to focus more on the climbing rhythm than hauling a bulky set.

Lookout Mountain Crag itself sits within an easily reachable driving distance from Golden, offering an uncluttered escape from busier urban climbs. Approach trails move through open groves of scrub and mixed pines, providing early morning shade and a chance to hear the wind shift in the nearby open spaces. This balance of approach simplicity and physical challenge creates an inviting scenario for climbers seeking a moderate trad line to build confidence or enjoy a straightforward send.

For those preparing to climb, timing your ascent to avoid midday heat is wise, as the west-facing wall basks fully in sunlight by afternoon. Early spring through autumn offers the best weather windows, with winter freezes occasionally coating the rock in slick patches. Footwear with sticky rubber is essential here to capitalize on friction, and carrying enough hydration will help you stay sharp on the approach and during your climb.

"Into the Void" is not the highest-profile route on Lookout Mountain, but its blend of slab cracks, technical moves, and a challenging roof section delivers a satisfying challenge for the focused trad climber. While it doesn’t boast multi-pitch complexity, the quality of rock and the nature of the movements create memorable moments that nudge you to sharpen skills and enjoy the crag’s raw beauty. Whether you’re working toward your trad leader certification or looking for a solid single-pitch project in the foothills, this climb offers a slice of Colorado’s climbing character—earnest, approachable yet challenging.

Climber Safety

The roof section demands solid placement confidence and body positioning—novice trad leaders should approach with caution. Watch for loose rock around the roof, and be mindful of footing on slippery slab sections especially in damp or early-morning conditions.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Approach is a short walk; wear shoes with good traction for rocky trails.

Start early to avoid afternoon sun on the west-facing wall.

Pay careful attention to foot placements on the slab sections for maximum grip.

Bring hydration and be prepared for occasional high winds on the ridge.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating on this route feels fairly accurate with some stiff moments at the roof pull. While the crack sections move smoothly for those confident with finger-to-hand jams, the roof adds a physical crux that pushes commitment. It’s less polished than nearby sport routes but delivers a solid trad challenge without stepping into technical 5.10 territory.

Gear Requirements

A light trad rack covers the protection needs efficiently. The crack and overlaps allow for solid gear placements without requiring an extensive amount of cams or nuts, making it suitable for a minimalist setup.

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Tags

slabby crack
roof pull
moderate protection
single pitch
colorado trad
beginner trad leader caution