Stairs of Stone: Exploring Khandagiri Caves, Bhubaneswar’s Ancient Skyline
A compact climb through carved history—how to read the rock and savor the view
You arrive at Khandagiri Caves on a quiet morning when the heat of Bhubaneswar has not yet gathered momentum. The hill rises like an old friend—rounded, scrubbed by monsoon winds, its face scored with man-made cavities that look at once deliberate and weathered. As you climb the stone steps, the town falls away: a patchwork of tin roofs and banyan trees, the distant silhouette of Lingaraja Temple punctuating the skyline. Wind teases the loose cloth of a temple flag; goats shift on terraced rocks. The caves watch you like a neighborhood of patient neighbors.
Trail Wisdom
Mind the steps
Stone stairways are uneven and can be slick after rain—wear grippy shoes and use handrails where provided.
Hydrate before you climb
Carry at least 1 liter of water per person for a typical 1–2 hour visit, more in hot months.
Morning or late afternoon light
Visit early or late to avoid mid-day heat and capture relief carving in the best light.
Hire a local guide
A licensed guide can translate inscriptions and point out subtle reliefs you’d otherwise miss.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Small viewpoint west of Cave 4 for unobstructed city panoramas
- •Pocket tea stalls at the base that serve fresh paan and Odia sweets
Wildlife
Indian palm squirrel, varied passerine birds such as babblers
Conservation Note
Visitors are asked to avoid chalking or touching delicate carvings; local authorities run periodic conservation efforts to manage erosion and visitor impact.
The Khandagiri and neighboring Udayagiri caves were carved around the time of King Kharavela (1st century BCE) as Jain monastic dwellings and contain Brahmi inscriptions recording donations.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: cooler hikes, clear photos, cultural tours
Challenges: occasional pollen and dusty paths, variable morning fog
Spring (March–May) offers pleasant mornings for climbing and photography, though days warm by noon—start early.
summer
Best for: short crowds, cheaper travel deals
Challenges: high heat and humidity, shorter patience on exposed ledges
Summer is hot (April–June); plan visits in the early morning and bring extra water and sun protection.
fall
Best for: monsoon-after greenery, clear skies, comfortable temperatures
Challenges: residual slippery paths after monsoon, patchy erosion in places
Autumn (September–November) brings lush surroundings and crisp light—watch for damp stones after rains.
winter
Best for: pleasant weather, long daylight hours, city festivals
Challenges: mornings can be cool, slightly busier weekends
Winter (December–February) is ideal: cool, dry and comfortable for exploring the hill and carvings.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Sturdy trail shoesEssential
Provide traction and ankle support on uneven stone steps and short scrambles.
1–1.5L water bottleEssential
Prevents dehydration in Odisha’s heat—carry more during summer months.
Wide-brim hat & sunscreenEssential
Protects against sun exposure on open ledges and viewpoints.
Compact camera or smartphone with zoom
Captures carvings and city panoramas—use a small strap to keep it secure on ledges.
Common Questions
How much time should I budget for Khandagiri Caves?
Plan 1–2 hours for a focused visit; 2–3 hours if you want a slow photography or guided history tour.
Are the caves physically demanding to visit?
The site involves stairs and some uneven paths but no technical climbing—moderate mobility is sufficient.
Is there an entrance fee or guided tour option?
There is a modest entry fee; licensed local guides are available at the entrance for a small extra charge.
Can I photograph inside the caves?
Yes, casual photography is allowed for personal use—be mindful of other visitors and avoid flash in sensitive chambers.
Are the caves open year-round?
Yes, Khandagiri is open year-round though parts can be slippery during and immediately after the monsoon season.
Is Khandagiri suitable for children and older visitors?
Yes, with supervision—some ledges and steps require careful movement, so keep children close and pace the climb for older visitors.
What to Pack
Water bottle (hydration), sturdy shoes (traction on stone), hat & sunscreen (sun protection), light jacket (cool mornings or dusty winds)
Did You Know
Khandagiri and Udayagiri caves were commissioned during the reign of King Kharavela in the 1st century BCE and contain some of the earliest Brahmi inscriptions in eastern India.
Quick Travel Tips
1) Start early to avoid heat and crowds; 2) Carry small change for guide fees and tea stalls; 3) Wear closed-toe shoes for better grip; 4) Respect signs and ropes around fragile carvings.
Local Flavor
Bhubaneswar’s local cuisine—try ‘chenna poda’ (baked cottage cheese) and spicy fish curries at nearby bazaars; the city mixes temple rituals and modern cafes, making post-hike meals both spiritual and satisfying.
Logistics Snapshot
Entrance: low-cost; Best time: early morning or late afternoon; Duration: 1–2 hours; Facilities: basic restrooms and tea stalls at base; Guides: available on-site.
Sustainability Note
Stick to marked paths, avoid touching carved surfaces, and use refillable water bottles to minimize plastic; support local guides and handicraft sellers to keep tourism benefits local.