Sailing the Ice: Upsala Glacier and the Wild Waterways of Los Glaciares
Glacial giants, iceberg channels and gourmet decks—how to experience Upsala from lake level.
The bow of the Maria Turquesa parts a field of pale blue ice with the soft insistence of something that has done this a thousand times. A spray of salt and lake mist hits your face; for a few beats you can only watch—towering slabs and cobalt fissures drift past like islands, and the sound of grinding ice is a low, living rumble beneath the engines. That first encounter with the Upsala Glacier—one of the great outlet glaciers of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field—is less a sight than a sensory ambush: cold air that feels honest, a sky so wide you can lose your sense of direction, and icebergs the size of churches turning slowly in Lago Argentino.
Trail Wisdom
Layer for wind and sun
Temperatures on deck can feel 10–15°C colder with wind; bring a windproof shell, warm mid-layer, hat and UV protection.
Bring motion-sickness remedies
Lake Argentino can get choppy—if you’re prone to seasickness, take preventive medication before departure.
Opt for small-boat or premium decks
Fewer passengers mean more deck time and better opportunities to witness calving without crowds.
Respect viewing distances
Guides set safe distances for calving events—stay behind them to ensure safety and minimize wake impact.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Puesto de Las Vacas – a small island for a brief interpretive walk with glacial beaches
- •Spezzagini Refuge – close views of hanging glaciers and a quieter perspective than main Perito Moreno boardwalks
Wildlife
Andean condor, guanaco
Conservation Note
Glaciers in the park are sensitive indicators of climate change; follow park rules, minimize plastic waste, and book operators committed to low-impact practices.
Los Glaciares National Park was created to protect the Southern Patagonian Ice Field and its outlet glaciers; it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1981.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: iceberg-filled channels, fewer crowds
Challenges: variable weather, cool nights
September–November brings longer days and the first warming after winter, but expect wind and rapidly changing conditions on the lake.
summer
Best for: calmer seas, full-day navigations
Challenges: peak tourist season, strong UV exposure
December–February is the most reliable season for extended cruises and comfortable deck time, though tour availability fills fast.
fall
Best for: dramatic light, fewer tour groups
Challenges: cooling temperatures, increasing wind
March–May offers crisp air and clear skies ideal for photography, but expect shorter daylight hours and a chillier breeze.
winter
Best for: solitude, intense glacial color
Challenges: limited service, colder temps and possible cancellations
June–August is off-peak: some excursions run, but many services pause and conditions are colder with a higher chance of itinerary changes.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Windproof waterproof shellEssential
Shields against lake spray and Patagonian gusts while remaining breathable for long days on deck.
Insulating mid-layer (fleece/down)Essential
Traps warmth between your base layer and shell—critical during cool mornings and after sunset.
Sturdy waterproof trekking shoesEssential
Needed for short disembarkations and walking on uneven, sometimes wet terrain at stops like Puesto de Las Vacas.
Polarizing sunglasses and sunscreen
Reduces glare off ice and water and protects against strong Patagonian UV reflected by glaciers.
Common Questions
How long do glacier cruises to Upsala typically take?
Full-day cruises usually last 8–10 hours (common departures around 9:00 and returns by 17:30–18:00); overnight expeditions last 24–48+ hours depending on the itinerary.
Can I disembark near Upsala Glacier?
Upsala’s terminus is best viewed from the water for safety; some itineraries include disembarkation at nearby islands like Puesto de Las Vacas or the Perito Moreno catwalks for short hikes.
Are meals provided on board?
Many operators offer gourmet lunches or boxed lunches on day cruises; premium cabins and overnight trips include multi-course meals and beverages—check the specific tour details.
Is it safe to watch calving events from a boat?
Yes—licensed operators maintain safe viewing distances; always follow crew instructions and remain behind safety lines.
What wildlife might I see on a cruise?
Common sightings include Andean condors riding thermals over the steppe, guanacos on shorelines, and various waterfowl on Lago Argentino.
How do I get from El Calafate to the departure port?
Most cruises include round-trip transfers from El Calafate to Puerto La Soledad (about 47 km), but verify transfer inclusion when booking.
What to Pack
windproof shell (blocks spray and wind), warm mid-layer (for deck chills), sturdy waterproof shoes (for short shore walks), sunscreen & sunglasses (UV reflected by ice).
Did You Know
Upsala Glacier is one of the major outlet glaciers of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field and has retreated significantly in recent decades, reshaping the Upsala Canal and exposing new island shorelines.
Quick Travel Tips
Book popular Maria Turquesa departures early, take motion-sickness prevention if needed, confirm transfer inclusion from El Calafate, carry a small waterproof daypack for essentials.
Local Flavor
After a day on the lake, sample Patagonian lamb and calafate jam in El Calafate; support local guides, drink regional craft beers, and look for artisanal wool goods made from locally raised sheep.
Logistics Snapshot
Departures often start around 9:00 from Puerto La Soledad (≈47 km from El Calafate); full-day cruises return late afternoon; most tours include lunch and hotel transfers—book a day in advance in high season.
Sustainability Note
Choose operators with clear park permits, avoid single-use plastics, respect wildlife and marked trails, and consider carbon-offset options for longer expeditions.