Facing East at Coral Bay: Snorkels, Sunsets, and the Quiet Side of St. John
An under-the-radar east-side escape on St. John—where reefs, cays, and headlands intersect
The first thing that strikes you about Coral Bay isn’t the color of the water—though it’s an impossible, luminous turquoise—but the way the bay holds its breath. From the rutted ridge road descending toward the east shore, the town opens like a small harbor town that forgot to rush: a scattering of pastel houses, weathered fishing boats, and a handful of rum-shack restaurants that serve conch fritters with the calm authority of a place that’s been doing it right for generations.
Trail Wisdom
Use mooring buoys
When boating or anchoring near reefs like Waterlemon Cay, request a mooring buoy—anchoring damages coral and is often avoidable.
Start early for glassy water
Launch at dawn for calm seas and the best snorkel visibility; afternoon easterly winds can kick up chop.
Bring reef-safe sunscreen
Apply mineral-based, reef-safe sunscreen before arrival and reapply sparingly to protect coral health.
Footwear for headlands
Wear sturdy sandals or light hiking shoes for rocky trails like Ram Head; flip-flops won’t cut it on tumbled limestone.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Kayak the small coves north of Waterlemon Cay for quieter snorkel spots
- •Walk the Sugar Mill ruins near Coral Bay for a glimpse of plantation-era history and island archaeology
Wildlife
green sea turtle, southern stingray
Conservation Note
Choose operators that use mooring buoys, wear reef-safe sunscreen, and avoid touching or standing on coral—these small actions protect the bay’s reef systems.
Much of St. John is protected within Virgin Islands National Park thanks to Laurence Rockefeller’s 1956 land donation, which preserved large tracts of coastline and interior.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: snorkeling, kayaking, birdwatching
Challenges: intermittent showers, variable winds
Late spring often brings calm mornings and warming water—great for long snorkel sessions, but expect occasional showers and shifting winds in the afternoons.
summer
Best for: calm sea paddles, reef snorkeling, afternoon beach time
Challenges: heat and humidity, stronger afternoon winds, occasional tropical storms
Summer is hot and lush; mornings are prime for paddling but plan for heat and possible tropical activity and pack extra water.
fall
Best for: fewer crowds, boat charters, wildlife sightings
Challenges: hurricane season overlap, choppier seas at times
Fall offers quiet beaches and fewer visitors, but keep an eye on storm forecasts—flexible plans are wise during hurricane season.
winter
Best for: dry weather, comfortable hiking, excellent visibility
Challenges: higher visitor numbers, cooler nights
Winter is the dry season with clearer water and comfortable temps, making it the optimal window for snorkeling and daytime exploration.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Reef-safe sunscreenEssential
Protects both your skin and the fragile coral ecosystems you’ll be swimming over.
Snorkel mask and finsEssential
A well-fitting mask and fins increase comfort and let you cover more reef with less effort.
Hydration pack or NalgeneEssential
St. John’s sun and salt dehydrate quickly—bring at least 1.5–2 liters per person for active days.
Sturdy sandals or trail shoes
Useful for traversing limestone headlands like Ram Head and for rocky beach exits.
Common Questions
How do I get to Coral Bay from Cruz Bay?
Coral Bay is a 20–30 minute drive east from Cruz Bay via Centerline Road; car rentals and local taxis provide the most flexible access.
Is Waterlemon Cay good for beginner snorkelers?
Yes—on calm days the reef is shallow and sheltered, making it suitable for beginners; consider a guided trip or flotation device for confidence.
Are there boat charters from Coral Bay?
Yes—small operators run snorkeling and island-hopping charters from Coral Bay’s harbor; book in advance in high season and look for operators using mooring buoys.
Do I need a permit to enter Virgin Islands National Park?
No daily entrance fee is required for most trailheads, but certain activities like commercial guided tours may require permits—confirm with operators beforehand.
What wildlife might I see while snorkeling?
Expect to see green and hawksbill turtles, parrotfish, sergeant majors, and occasional rays; larger pelagics are less common close to shore.
Are there places to eat and resupply in Coral Bay?
Yes—Coral Bay has small groceries, produce stands, and several eateries (including the well-known Skinny Legs); still bring essentials if you have specific needs.
What to Pack
Mask & fins (better snorkel experience), reef-safe sunscreen (protect reefs), water & electrolytes (hydrate in heat), sturdy sandals (rocky headlands)
Did You Know
Laurance Rockefeller donated more than 5,000 acres in 1956 that helped establish Virgin Islands National Park, which now protects roughly two-thirds of St. John.
Quick Travel Tips
1) Rent a vehicle or pre-book a taxi—public transit is minimal; 2) Bring cash for small vendors; 3) Book boat charters ahead in high season; 4) Carry reef-safe sunscreen and a reusable water bottle.
Local Flavor
Coral Bay’s culinary scene skews casual—seafood shacks, roadside stands selling johnnycakes and conch fritters, and community bars like Skinny Legs where locals trade stories; booking local operators supports the island’s small-business economy.
Logistics Snapshot
Nearest hub: Cruz Bay (20–30 min drive); primary activities: snorkeling, kayaking, short hikes; book: boat charters in advance during Dec–Apr; cash handy for small purchases.
Sustainability Note
Use mooring buoys instead of anchors, wear mineral-based reef-safe sunscreen, and choose operators committed to low-impact boating and local reef monitoring.