Desertas Islands: A Sea-Swept Reserve Where Seals Rule and Trails Run Wild
A day of windswept cliffs, rare seals, and clear-water snorkeling reachable from Funchal
The morning the sea first reclaims the light around Funchal, the Desertas Islands appear as a line of bruised gold—low, jagged silhouettes hung off Madeira’s southeastern flank. You leave the marina with the harbor receding, the city’s basalt cliffs shrinking into a rim of green and stone, and the Atlantic pressing an honest rhythm against the hull. By the time the silhouette resolves into shore, the day has a single purpose: wildlife, wind, and a raw taste of islands that have been largely left alone.
Trail Wisdom
Bring layers and a windproof jacket
Even in summer the channels around the Desertas are windy; a lightweight, windproof layer makes boat rides and shoreline walks comfortable.
Use reef-safe sunscreen
The islands are a protected marine reserve—use reef-safe sunscreen to reduce chemical impacts on marine life when snorkeling or swimming.
Wear shoes with grip for island trails
Trails are short but rocky and steep in places; sturdy hiking shoes or trail runners will protect ankles and provide traction.
Respect wildlife distances
Monk seals and nesting seabirds are protected; follow your guide’s instructions and do not approach resting seals or bird colonies.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •West-facing viewpoint on Deserta Grande for late-afternoon light and sheer-cliff panoramas
- •The sheltered cleft on Ilhéu Chão where calm water pools can be surprisingly clear for snorkeling
Wildlife
Mediterranean monk seal (Monachus monachus), Cory’s shearwater (Calonectris borealis)
Conservation Note
Access is regulated to protect breeding seabirds and marine mammals; operators follow permit rules and zoning to limit human impact.
The islands were historically visited by fishermen and sealers; recognizing ecological decline led to the reserve designation in the 1990s and stricter protections since then.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: migratory seabirds, calmer seas than winter, wildflower accents on cliffs
Challenges: unpredictable showers, cooler water temperatures
Spring brings clearer skies and bird migration; water is brisk but wildlife activity increases—pack a warm layer and a wetsuit for snorkeling.
summer
Best for: warmest sea temperatures, best snorkeling visibility, longer daylight for circumnavigations
Challenges: more visitors on popular charters, strong sun exposure
Summer is ideal for swimming and clear water, but book trips early and arrive with sun protection and hydration.
fall
Best for: calmer seas after summer, good visibility for wildlife, milder temperatures
Challenges: shortening daylight hours, occasional north Atlantic swells
Late summer and early fall provide steady conditions and warm water with slightly fewer crowds—great for private charters.
winter
Best for: dramatic seascapes, storm-watching from a safe distance, lower prices on some tours
Challenges: rough seas and cancellations, colder water and wind
Winter shows the islands’ raw side; crossings are rougher and landings may be restricted—expect some cancellations and dress warmly.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Windproof shell or light jacketEssential
Protects against sea spray and the constant wind on the islands.
Sturdy trail shoes or trail runnersEssential
Provides grip on loose volcanic rock and safety on uneven island trails.
Reef-safe sunscreen and sun protectionEssential
Reduces environmental impact and prevents sunburn during long exposures on deck or shore.
Waterproof camera or action camera with float
Captures snorkeling and wildlife moments safely—use a floating strap for boat conditions.
Common Questions
How long is the boat ride from Funchal to the Desertas?
Crossing typically takes about 60–90 minutes depending on the vessel and sea conditions; faster private catamarans are usually quicker.
Can visitors land on the Desertas Islands freely?
No—landing is controlled and typically only allowed in designated areas with a guide to minimize disturbance to wildlife and habitats.
What wildlife can I expect to see?
Common sightings include dolphins and various whale species offshore, and seabirds like Cory’s shearwater and Bulwer’s petrel; Mediterranean monk seal sightings are rare but possible.
Is snorkeling good around the islands?
Yes—the water is often clearer around the Desertas than nearshore Madeira; bring or rent snorkel gear and a wetsuit in cooler months.
Are there facilities on the islands (toilets, food)?
No—there are no visitor facilities on Deserta Grande; boats typically provide snacks or encourage bringing water and food for the day.
Are trips suitable for children and seniors?
Many operators allow families and older travelers, but consider seasickness susceptibility, the physical demands of landing, and limited facilities—check with the operator before booking.
What to Pack
windproof jacket (wind protection), reef-safe sunscreen (protect marine life), sturdy trail shoes (safe footing), snorkel mask and fins (better underwater access)
Did You Know
The Desertas Islands are a designated nature reserve and are one of the few places where the endangered Mediterranean monk seal may still be encountered in European waters.
Quick Travel Tips
1) Book morning departures from Funchal to maximize calm seas; 2) Bring cash for marina fees or small purchases in Funchal; 3) Pack a dry bag for electronics; 4) Confirm weather cancellation and refund policy before booking.
Local Flavor
Funchal’s maritime culture threads into Desertas trips—book after your tour for espada (black scabbardfish) with bananas and bolo do caco bread, and sample local poncha on the harbor to round out a day at sea.
Logistics Snapshot
Boarding: Funchal marina; Duration: 5–8 hours; Best time: May–October; Bookings: reserve in advance for summer; Facilities: none on islands; Wildlife: protected—follow guide rules.
Sustainability Note
Choose licensed operators who adhere to reserve landing rules, use reef-safe products, and brief passengers on wildlife etiquette to minimize disturbance to seals and nesting birds.