Beneath the Red Rim: Exploring Herjólfsdalur and Heimaey’s Volcanic Heart
Walk the valley beneath Eldfell—watch puffins, touch recent lava and feel the island’s history up close.
You step off the ferry onto Heimaey with a wind that seems to know the island by name—sharp, saline, and brisk enough to rearrange thoughts. Behind you the mainland fades into a gray smudge; ahead the island lifts in tiers: black lava fields, turf-roofed houses, and the bright scar of Eldfell, the volcano that rewrote this place in 1973. Herjólfsdalur is the valley that lives in the volcano’s shadow, a green-flecked incision that invites a slow, purposeful walk and a close look at how geology, wildlife and local history converge.
Trail Wisdom
Layer for wind and rain
Heimaey’s weather switches quickly—bring a windproof shell and insulating mid-layer even on warm days.
Respect nesting birds
Stay on marked trails and avoid cliffs during puffin nesting season to prevent disturbance.
Bring a telephoto
A 200–400mm equivalent lens is ideal for puffin and cliff photography from safe distances.
Start early for light and space
Morning light softens the lava and mornings are less crowded—great for photos and quieter wildlife viewing.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Walk the low valley trails at dusk for golden light on recent lava flows
- •Visit the small local museum about the 1973 eruption for first-hand accounts
Wildlife
Atlantic puffin, common guillemot
Conservation Note
Local guides and authorities enforce cliff and nest protections during breeding season; stick to paths and respect closures to protect colonies.
Heimaey was dramatically altered by the 1973 Eldfell eruption, which led to a full evacuation and reshaped the island’s coastline and communities.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: dramatic skies, off-season solitude, migrant birds
Challenges: unpredictable weather, shorter daylight early in season
Spring brings migrating seabirds and often dramatic weather; trails can be muddy and services sparse.
summer
Best for: puffin colonies, long daylight, guided tours
Challenges: more visitors, occasional midges near wetlands
Summer is prime puffin season and the busiest time—book guided tours early for the best experience.
fall
Best for: auroral displays late season, fewer crowds, moody landscapes
Challenges: colder winds, reduced tour schedules
Autumn cools quickly; the island is quieter and skies are often spectacular for photographers.
winter
Best for: dramatic coastal storms, aurora chasing, empty trails
Challenges: limited ferries, cold, short days
Winter is remote and raw—great for stormwatching and solitude but plan for limited services and rough seas.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Waterproof shellEssential
Wind and sudden rain are common—an effective shell keeps you comfortable.
Sturdy hiking bootsEssential
Trails cross loose ash and sharp lava; ankle support and good tread matter.
Telephoto lens (200–400mm)
For safe, close-up photos of puffins and seabirds from cliff viewpoints.
Insulating mid-layerEssential
Temperatures change fast—a warm mid-layer makes waiting or photos comfortable.
Common Questions
When is the best time to see puffins on Heimaey?
Puffins are most visible from late April through August, with peak viewing in June and July when chicks are ashore and activity is highest.
How difficult is the hike up Eldfell?
The Eldfell ascent is moderate—about 2–3 km round-trip with several hundred meters of gain; it’s steep in places but well-marked and non-technical.
Are guided tours necessary?
Guides are recommended for wildlife ethics, birdwatching insights and historical context; independent walkers can safely explore marked trails but miss local storytelling.
Can I drive an ATV to see puffins?
There are organized ATV tours that use paved routes and coastal roads—these are family-friendly ways to reach viewing spots, not off-road adventures.
How do I get to Heimaey from Reykjavik?
You can reach Heimaey by regular ferry from Landeyjahöfn or by short domestic flight; many operators also offer full-day private tours that include transport from Reykjavík.
What should I avoid when visiting nesting cliffs?
Do not approach nesting birds, stay on marked trails, avoid loud noises near colonies and follow guides’ instructions to prevent disturbance.
What to Pack
Windproof shell (protects from sudden weather), sturdy boots (for uneven lava and ash), telephoto lens or binoculars (for puffin viewing), layered insulation (for changing temps)
Did You Know
In 1973 Eldfell erupted on Heimaey and the island’s 5,300 residents were evacuated—lava flows created new land and the eruption remains one of Iceland’s most dramatic modern geological events.
Quick Travel Tips
Book coastal and puffin tours in June–July; bring cash-free payment methods; check ferry schedules for weather-related changes; respect nesting closures and local guidance.
Local Flavor
Vestmannaeyjar life centers on fishing and langoustine; sample freshly grilled langoustine at local eateries, and look for turf-house reconstructions and Viking-era exhibits that tie the island’s food culture to its seafaring past.
Logistics Snapshot
Access by ferry or short flight; best months June–August; guided tours available daily in summer; bring layered clothing and book puffin tours in advance.
Sustainability Note
Stick to trails, follow guide instructions, avoid single-use plastics and support local businesses to keep the island’s economy and ecosystems healthy.