Along the Spine of Jordan: Driving the King’s Highway
Drive, hike and linger along Jordan’s ancient caravan road—history and landscape in every turn.
You turn off the highway and the world narrows: low stone walls, a ribbon of asphalt, a horizon of ochre and basalt that tilts into distant peaks. The King’s Highway doesn’t announce itself with fanfare; it reveals itself in sequences — a Crusader keep crouching atop a hill, a village frozen around a centuries-old mosque, a sudden sweep of pale olive terraces stitched into a canyon. It is both a road and a time machine, a route that has ferried traders, pilgrims and princes from the Gulf of Aqaba to the fertile hinterlands around Amman for millennia.
Trail Wisdom
Carry extra water
Distances between reliable water sources can be long—bring at least 2–3 liters per person for day hikes and more for summer travel.
Hire local guides for reserves
Guides in Dana or Wadi Mujib improve safety, point out wildlife and support community conservation projects.
Wear grippy footwear
Trails are rocky and occasionally loose; ankle-supporting shoes reduce injury risk on descent-heavy routes.
Carry small bills
Local stalls, artisans and guesthouses often prefer cash; keep small denominations handy for purchases and tips.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Feynan Eco-Lodge and evening stargazing on the Dana escarpment
- •The mosaic workshops and small antiquities shops in Madaba’s side streets
Wildlife
Nubian ibex, griffon vultures
Conservation Note
Community-led initiatives in Dana and Feynan focus on sustainable tourism and support local livelihoods—using guides and staying in local lodges channels revenue directly back into conservation.
The King’s Highway follows an ancient trade route referenced in historical texts and built upon by the Nabateans and Romans to move goods and troops through Transjordan.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: wildflowers in wadis, comfortable daytime hikes, clear photography conditions
Challenges: occasional rain showers, cool mountain mornings
Spring balances mild days and blooming scenery—ideal for hiking the Dana trails and photographing terraces and mosaics.
summer
Best for: early-morning desert photography, long daylight for driving, clear, dusty light for landscapes
Challenges: high daytime temperatures, limited shade on exposed trails
Summer brings heat; plan activities for dawn or late afternoon and seek shaded stops or higher-elevation segments.
fall
Best for: pleasant driving weather, full-service tour operations, stunning late-afternoon light
Challenges: shortening daylight hours, possible rain at season's end
Autumn is the sweet spot—warm days, cool nights and excellent conditions for both driving and hiking.
winter
Best for: moody skies and dramatic vistas, fewer crowds at major sites, clear air for long views
Challenges: cold nights and higher-elevation snow, short days and occasional road closures
Winter can be atmospheric and quiet, but bring warm layers and check conditions at higher passes before setting out.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Sturdy hiking shoesEssential
Provides traction and ankle support on rocky, uneven trails like Wadi Dana.
Hydration pack (2–3L)Essential
Keeps water accessible during long exposed drives and hikes in arid sections.
Layered jacket (windproof)Essential
Evenings and higher elevations can be chilly—layers trap heat without bulk.
Sun protection (hat + SPF 30+)Essential
Essential for long stretches with minimal shade across plateaus and terraces.
Common Questions
How long does it take to drive the King’s Highway?
Without stops the drive between southern border points and Amman can be done in a long day (4–6 hours), but plan at least 2–5 days to explore key sites and hikes along the route.
Do I need a guide to explore the King’s Highway?
Not for the road itself, but local guides are strongly recommended for biosphere reserves, multi-day hikes and archaeological sites to enhance safety and interpretation.
Is the King’s Highway suitable for self-drive?
Yes—roads are generally paved and well-maintained, but allow extra time for slower mountain sections and watch for livestock and local driving patterns.
What are the must-see stops along the route?
Karak Castle, Madaba’s mosaics, Mount Nebo, Dana Biosphere Reserve and the approach roads to Wadi Rum and Petra are top highlights accessible from the Highway.
When is the best time to visit?
Fall (October–November) and spring (March–May) offer the most comfortable weather for hiking and sightseeing.
Are permits or entrance fees required?
Major sites like Petra and some reserves charge entrance fees; check site-specific prices in advance and carry local currency for smaller entrances or services.
What to Pack
Sturdy hiking shoes for uneven trails; hydration system (2–3L) for long exposed stretches; layered jacket for cold mornings/evenings; sun protection (hat + SPF) for desert and plateau sun.
Did You Know
The King’s Highway is mentioned in ancient texts as a major north–south trade route and was later improved by the Romans—its modern route follows many of those same strategic passages.
Quick Travel Tips
Plan 3–5 days to explore key stops; bring small-denomination local currency; hire local guides for reserves; check weather before high-elevation hikes.
Local Flavor
Taste mansaf or a simple jar of labneh and za’atar with warm flatbread; visit Madaba’s workshops to see traditional mosaic-making and buy a small tesselated souvenir from local artisans.
Logistics Snapshot
Drive time: 4–6 hours direct; recommended trip length: 3–10 days; currency: Jordanian dinar; languages: Arabic (English widely spoken in tourism); safety: generally stable—use common-sense road and cultural precautions.
Sustainability Note
Prefer local guides and eco-lodges, pack out disposable waste, avoid off-road driving in protected areas and use water sparingly in this arid environment.