Along the Knife-Edge: Hiking the Trotternish Ridge on Skye
A knife‑edged spine of rock, sea and sky — why every hiker should experience Skye’s most dramatic ridge.
The first light on the Isle of Skye slices across the Trotternish Ridge like a blade. You climb from a cold, gravel car park beneath a sky that has already been argued over by wind and cloud; beneath your boots the old volcanic rock gives with a porous, reassuring crunch. Above you, the Old Man of Storr stands like a guardian—an upright finger of basalt etched by millennia of frost, rain and slide. To your left, the land drops away into a banded coastline where Mealt Falls hurls itself into the sea, and beyond that the Atlantic widens into something indifferent and enormous.
Trail Wisdom
Start early or late
Parking at Quiraing and Storr fills fast in high season—arrive at first light or late afternoon for quieter trails and better light.
Wear a hard‑wearing waterproof
The ridge is exposed and weather changes quickly; a breathable waterproof and windproof shell will keep you moving and comfortable.
Bring navigation and know how to use it
Paths can be faint in places and cloud moves in fast—carry an OS map plus compass or a charged GPS with downloaded routes.
Respect the land and livestock
Stay on established lines where possible, close gates, and avoid disturbing grazing animals and nesting birds.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Mealt Falls and Kilt Rock viewpoint—dramatic coastal outlook with a coastal waterfall
- •Duntulm Castle ruins and crofting paths on the northern tip of Trotternish
Wildlife
golden eagle, red deer
Conservation Note
Visitors are asked to stick to paths where available to prevent peat erosion; local initiatives focus on protecting breeding birds and restoring damaged heathland.
The Trotternish landslip formed after the last ice age; the broken escarpment and pinnacles are the result of repeated slope failures in volcanic plateaus over weaker sedimentary layers.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: wildflowers and migration birds, longer daylight, milder temperatures
Challenges: muddy trails after thaw, changeable weather
Spring brings green slopes and migrating birds; expect cooler mornings and patches of mud on steep sections.
summer
Best for: stable weather windows, long days for extended routes, birdwatching on the cliffs
Challenges: crowds and limited parking, midges in calm conditions
Summer offers the most reliable walking weather and long daylight but also the busiest trails—plan timing accordingly.
fall
Best for: dramatic light and color, fewer hikers, photography
Challenges: shortening days, more frequent Atlantic storms
Autumn provides rich colors and quieter paths, but storms can bring strong winds and sudden rain—pack accordingly.
winter
Best for: snowy scapes and solitude, winter photography, advanced mountaineering practice
Challenges: ice and snow on trails, short daylight and cold temperatures
Winter turns the ridge alpine; only experienced parties with crampons and ice axes should attempt exposed sections.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Waterproof jacket and trousersEssential
Protects against wind-driven rain and helps retain warmth on exposed sections.
Sturdy hiking boots (ankle support)Essential
Necessary for loose rock, steep scrambles and wet peat underfoot.
Map and compass or GPS deviceEssential
Cell signal is unreliable—navigation tools help keep you on route in poor visibility.
Insulating mid-layer (fleece/down)
Wind on the ridge can chill quickly; a compact insulating layer makes rests comfortable.
Common Questions
How hard is the Quiraing circuit?
The Quiraing loop is moderate: about 6–7 km with 300–400 m of ascent, including exposed sections and uneven rock—expect 2–3 hours at a steady pace.
Can I drive to the trailheads?
Yes, there are small parking areas at Quiraing and Storr, but spaces are limited in summer—arrive early or consider a guided tour or local shuttle.
Are dogs allowed on the trails?
Dogs are welcome but must be kept under control around livestock and during bird‑nesting season; bring leads for sections with sheep.
Is the ridge suitable for beginner hikers?
Some routes like the shorter Storr walk are accessible to fit beginners, but exposed and steep sections require sure footing and basic navigation skills.
Do I need a guide?
No, the main trails are straightforward, but a guide adds local knowledge, helps with logistics and is recommended in poor weather or for extended ridge traverses.
Are there refreshments and toilets at the trailheads?
Facilities are very limited—bring water and snacks; Portree (the nearest town) has shops, cafés and public toilets.
What to Pack
water (2L), waterproof shell, map/GPS, high‑energy snacks
Did You Know
The Trotternish landslip is the longest continuous landslip in Great Britain, responsible for iconic formations like the Quiraing and Old Man of Storr.
Quick Travel Tips
1) Base yourself in Portree for food and lodging; 2) Fuel up—there are limited petrol stations on Skye; 3) Fill water bottles before setting out; 4) Check ferry and road conditions in winter.
Local Flavor
Portree’s harbor serves fresh scallops, langoustine and trout; Gaelic place names and local crofters’ stories thread through the landscape—pair a ridge walk with a pub meal and a dram of island whisky.
Logistics Snapshot
Nearest town: Portree (20–40 minutes drive); parking: limited at trailheads; difficulty: moderate; permit: none required; mobile signal: patchy.
Sustainability Note
Stick to established paths to limit peat erosion, pack out all waste, and support local businesses in Portree to keep tourism benefits in the community.