Along the Edge: Hiking the Kalalau Trail on Kauai’s Nā Pali Coast
A rugged coastal spine of cliff, surf and secluded valley camps—prepare well and you’ll be rewarded with one of America’s most dramatic hikes.
You step off Ke‘e Beach with sand still cooling underfoot and the ocean already making small urgings behind you. The Kalalau Trail pins you to the edge of the island: too close to the Pacific to ignore, too high to be comfortable. Sea wind pushes at your shoulder like a companion who will not be hurried. The first switchbacks lift you above a mosaic of green cliffs and waterfalls—ancient ridgelines carved into jagged teeth. Over the next hours and days the trail will ask for patience: it rewards steadiness with vistas that feel like cartography come to life—a wild, vertical coastline where the land seems to fall away in tiers into one unbroken blue.
Trail Wisdom
Permits are required for overnight stays
Reserve a backcountry permit through Hawai‘i DLNR well in advance—camping on Kalalau Beach without one is prohibited.
Filter or carry enough water
Stream flow varies; bring a filter or purification tablets and a 2–3 liter capacity to avoid dehydration.
Watch surf and river conditions
High surf can strand hikers and heavy rain can make stream crossings dangerous—avoid hiking after storms.
Leave no trace and respect cultural sites
Stick to the trail, pack out all trash, and treat terraces and heiau with respect—these are living cultural landscapes.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Hanakoa Falls (seasonal waterfall pool within the valley)
- •The tunneled sea caves visible by kayak or calm-water boat during low swell
Wildlife
Hawaiian monk seal, Spinner dolphins (and seasonal humpback whales offshore)
Conservation Note
Permitted camping, limited access and strict waste rules aim to protect fragile native habitats and culturally important sites—follow state guidelines to minimize impact.
The Kalalau Trail follows ancient Hawaiian footpaths once used to reach taro terraces and coastal fishing communities, and remnants of terraces and heiau remain in the valleys.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: wildflowers and lush valleys, moderate crowds
Challenges: intermittent showers, cooler mornings
Spring offers fresh greenery and fewer tourists than summer, but expect occasional rain that can slick the trail.
summer
Best for: longer daylight and calmer seas, best boat access
Challenges: higher temperatures and more crowds, occasional trade-wind squalls
Summer provides the most stable hiking conditions and easier boat charters—ideal for multi-day trips and snorkeling.
fall
Best for: spectacular light and fewer crowds, comfortable temperatures
Challenges: increasing rain as winter approaches, some boat operators slow down
Fall balances shoulder-season quiet with generally good conditions; be mindful of shifting weather patterns late in the season.
winter
Best for: dramatic surf and whale watching, storm-forged scenery
Challenges: dangerous surf and swollen streams, higher chance of trail closures
Winter is beautiful but riskier: big surf and fast-moving streams raise the stakes for both beachgoers and hikers.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Backpacking pack (35–50L)Essential
Holds shelter, food, water and layers for multi-day trips while keeping weight balanced on narrow trails.
Water filter or purification tabletsEssential
Ensures safe water from stream sources when resupply isn’t available.
Sturdy hiking boots with good gripEssential
Ankle support and sticky soles are helpful on wet roots, muddy slopes and rocky ledges.
Lightweight waterproof jacket
Quick protection against sudden downpours and wind-driven spray on exposed ridge sections.
Common Questions
Do I need a permit to hike the Kalalau Trail?
Permits are required for overnight camping on the Kalalau Trail and must be obtained from Hawai‘i DLNR; day hikers do not need a permit to hike to Hanakapiai Beach but should check current advisories.
How long does it take to hike to Kalalau Beach?
The trail is 11 miles one-way; most parties allow 2–3 days round-trip to Kalalau Beach to hike safely and enjoy the valley.
Is there cell service on the trail?
Cell coverage is sporadic to nonexistent along much of the Nā Pali Coast; plan for limited connectivity and carry a map and compass or GPS device.
Can I access the Nā Pali Coast by boat instead of hiking?
Yes—boat charters and guided kayak trips offer alternative access to coves and beaches; sea conditions determine availability and safety.
Are there dangerous river crossings?
Yes—streams can rise quickly after rain and some crossings can become hazardous; avoid hiking after heavy rainfall and turn back if currents are strong.
Can I have a campfire at Kalalau?
Campfires are typically prohibited—check state regulations; bring a camp stove for cooking and pack out all waste.
What to Pack
Backcountry permit and ID (required), water filtration system (for stream sources), sturdy hiking boots (traction and ankle support), lightweight waterproof jacket (sudden rain and wind protection)
Did You Know
The Kalalau Trail follows paths used for centuries by Native Hawaiians to access taro terraces and coastal villages—many terrace outlines and cultural sites remain visible in the valleys.
Quick Travel Tips
1) Apply for backcountry permits early; 2) Start hikes at dawn to avoid heat and allow margin for weather; 3) Bring a physical map—rely less on cell coverage; 4) Use reef-safe sunscreen to protect marine ecosystems.
Local Flavor
Hanalei and nearby towns serve up fresh poke, laulau and shaved ice; visit a local farmers market for mangoes, taro treats and to hear Hawaiian language and history shared by kupuna (elders).
Logistics Snapshot
Trailhead: Ke‘e Beach (Ha‘ena State Park). Distance: 11 miles one-way to Kalalau. Permits required for overnight camping. Water: treat before drinking. Nearest towns: Hanalei, Princeville. Emergency: limited cell service—prepare accordingly.
Sustainability Note
Obtain and honor permits, pack out all trash and human waste as required, use reef-safe sunscreen, and avoid disturbing cultural sites to help preserve the Nā Pali Coast’s fragile ecosystems and heritage.