The Zodiac surges out of the marina, spray catching the sun as the skyline of Cabo San Lucas slides aft. Your captain threads the narrow channel past the Arch, where currents push and swirl like a river meeting the ocean, and Pelican Rock perches on the horizon, sharp against a bright sky. A marine biologist scans the surface with binoculars; beneath their calm voice the ocean seems to have a character of its own, curious and occasionally exuberant. Within minutes a dorsal fin arcs, then a spray and the unmistakable back-and-forth of a humpback—huge, deliberate, and close enough for a quiet, reverent pause.