You step off a low-slung open-top watertaxi and the lake immediately rearranges your pace: wind across the water, villas leaning toward the shore as if to listen. The guided visit to Villa Carlotta begins in a cool gallery where 19th-century sculpture by Canova keeps quiet company with painted canvases; then the path opens into terraces of camellias and azaleas that drop toward the lake. After the garden, the private watertaxi glides south from Tremezzo past pine-clad slopes and marble-fronted villas, rounds the weathered outline of Isola Comacina, and cruises beneath Bellagio’s promontory.