You step off the plane into humidity that immediately rearranges your plans—the air smells faintly of cinnamon and diesel, a tropical heat that promises slow mornings and luminous sunsets. A company representative threads through the arrivals crowd and leads you to an air-conditioned car where an English-speaking chauffeur waits with bottles of water and a laminated itinerary. Over the next nine days the island pushes and pulls you: ancient stupas demanding reverence, tea country slopes that put wind in your chest, and a national park where elephants announce themselves like punctuation.