The van eases out of Bilbao before sunrise, and the coastline unfurls like a hard-edged promise—rock, foam, and green cliffs that look as if they have been chiselled by wind. Your guide steers toward narrow roads where villages cling to the sea: Bermeo with its fishing boats, the long curve of Mundaka, and the thin ribbon of stone that links the islet of Gaztelugatxe to the mainland. At Gaztelugatxe the air tastes of salt and iron. After descending a coastal path you face the 241 steps that lead to the tiny San Juan hermitage. Each step changes the view until, at the top, the bay opens like a held breath.