You step into a cool minivan as the desert sun is still soft, the city stretching out like a map waiting to be read. Your guide eases the vehicle into traffic and begins to thread through Downtown Phoenix—midcentury civic blocks, glass towers, and the low, red slopes of the mountains that guard the valley. Over the next four hours the metro area shows itself in short, decisive scenes: the Capitol’s marble face, the patterned facades of Scottsdale’s galleries, a roadside glimpse of Camelback’s profile, and the tucked-away driveway that leads up to the Wrigley Mansion.