You step off the ferry into Moyogalpa with lake air already damp and warm, palms leaning as though to watch you pass. An hour’s drive deposits you at the base of Maderas Volcano where the trail to San Ramón narrows and the jungle tightens its grip: roots like ropes, ferns brushing your calves, and the steady pulse of water ahead. The hike climbs through secondary cloud forest—moss clings to trees and orchids peek from bole cavities—until the cliff opens and the waterfall drops in a column, throwing cool mist that dares you to strip off your pack and jump in.