You step off the HRTC bus into the cool, thin air of Mandi and the road immediately begins to climb — a ribbon of tarmac that gives way to a footpath within hours. Trees press close; deodar and oak branches brush your shoulders as the lower Himalaya tests steady feet with a series of stepped climbs. On the second ridge the lake at Kamrunag appears like a dark eye in the forest, its surface dotted with coins and offerings left for an old local vow. The route continues through quiet forest campsites before opening onto the Shikari Devi sanctuary where wind and rock exchange stories of depth and scale.