The morning opens cold and bright at the foot of Mt. Bukhansan, and Seoul still feels a step removed—a scattering of shoulder-width trails threading granite spires and pines while the city crouches below. Groups gather by the trailhead, check boots, and listen as a guide outlines routes that will decide the day: a steadier climb to Seunggasa for newcomers, or the narrower, steam-cooled Bibong ridgeline for people who like rock steps and scrambling. The mountain doesn't simply sit above Seoul; it leans toward it, offering a view where skyscrapers and temple roofs sit in the same frame.