The hull cuts through the bay with a steady, patient confidence and the city peels away behind you — painted piers, a clump of apartment roofs, the familiar silhouette of Alcatraz like a small, stubborn island in the middle distance. Onboard Temptation, a modern 37-foot yacht, the morning is an exercise in small pleasures: the whisper of rigging, the occasional call of a gull, and a sudden, broad view as the Golden Gate Bridge swings into frame. Captain John eases the sheets; the boat leans, the Bay stretches, and for two hours the world narrows to wind, water and a few good companions.