Before dawn the bus threads a spine of asphalt out of Cusco, headlights cutting through puna wind until the road crests at Abra Málaga (4,316 m) and the mountains change register — snow-capped Veronica watches as the air thins and the landscape leans toward cloud forest. Over the next day the route descends through puna grasslands into warm valleys, passing tea and coffee farms, banana and pineapple plots, and finally the steam and rails at Hidroeléctrica. The approach along the tracks toward Aguas Calientes feels deliberate: the Vilcanota River pulls the valley together, and the town arrives as a green, noisy hinge at the foot of Machu Picchu.