The paddle begins on warm sand at Kim Sha Beach—sit-on-top hulls rocking gently as guides tighten straps and point toward the wide, brackish sweep of Simpson Bay Lagoon. At a leisurely cadence you push off into the largest saltwater lagoon in the Antilles, the water slick under your blade and mega-yachts frowning in the distance like slow-moving castles. The guide steers a course past mangrove fingers and across the informal line where Dutch and French waters meet, narrating the island’s split personality as island life drifts by: Dutch marinas, French cafés and a history written at the water’s edge.