You climb into a bright yellow H‑1 Hummer with dust still on its tires and the desert pressing out in every direction. The engine rumbles and the open air carries a dry, resinous scent — creosote and joshua-tree needles — while the guide taps the brake and points toward a ridge that will throw the valley at you in one long, clear view. By the time the vehicle slows at Keys View, the temperature has dropped 20–30 degrees and the horizon relaxes into layers: the Coachella Valley, a smear of salt at the Salton Sea, and, on very clear days, the high shoulders of Baja California. The wind seems to want to keep moving; even the joshua trees gesture as if to urge you onward.