You arrive before dawn, the van rolling off the coastal plain toward the island's central spine as the sky lightens. Through the window, patchwork paddy fields and palm crowns slide past; ahead, a solitary column of basalt—Lion Rock—spikes from the jungle like a man-made mountain daring you to climb. By midmorning you'll be threading metal staircases that cling to its flanks, tracing frescoed galleries and ancient water cisterns that still hold rain. In the evening the plains near Minneriya will offer a different drama: the slow, deliberate parade of elephants converging on a watering ground, trunks sweeping like dark flags across the grass.