You leave Siem Reap before sunrise and cross a patchwork of rice paddies until Battambang appears: low colonial roofs, river bends and a distant temple ridge. The bamboo train welcomes you with a simple, clever clack of bamboo slats on metal wheels; speed and sky negotiate as fields blur past. Higher up, Phnom Banan perches above the valley — laterite steps and compact lateritic blocks telling a story of 11th–12th century Khmer builders. Caves at Phnom Sampeou hold quieter, rawer memories: small caverns, a hillside pagoda, and at one site the dark traces of Cambodia's recent past.