The climb begins before the summit reveals itself — a vertical silhouette rising from rice paddies and mahogany trees, the rock’s sheer flank catching the first light. At the base, the water gardens mirror the cliff and the path of visitors, and a pair of carved lion paws marks the final approach to a staircase that winds into history. By the time the metal staircases narrow and the fresco gallery comes into view, the landscape below has already rearranged: canals, terraced gardens and ponds sitting like deliberate brushstrokes around the base of a 200-meter basalt column.