You step out of the minivan before dawn and the valley breathes a cool, dry air that seems to have been waiting all day to reveal itself. The skyline is not trees or towers but a procession of stone chimneys—pocked, ribbed, and oddly upright—each one holding the weathered patience of millennia. Over the next five hours a small group of six moves through this landscape with deliberate ease: a cave hotel for a morning coffee, tight stairs into an underground city, wind-sculpted cones at a panoramic overlook, and a photo stop at a camel-shaped rock that refuses to look like anything else.