Morning fog peels away as the road climbs out of Chiayi and the bus threads into a green silence. By the time the guide in a yellow jacket ushers the group down from the vehicle, the forest feels alive: trunks thicker than cars, pine resin sharp in the air, and a trail that seems to lead inward rather than up. Alishan's old-growth cedars and cypresses keep their slow watch while the slopes craft sudden outlooks over a valley prone to the famous "sea of clouds." The mountain itself is a product of Taiwan's young orogeny — folded, uplifted strata and steep ravines shaped by frequent rain and typhoon-season storms.