Dawn arrives cold and clear on the trail to Jbel Toubkal. You leave Marrakech's ochre sprawl and climb into the Aït Mizane valley, where mule tracks rise through terraced fields, gullies of stone, and whitewashed Berber houses. The first day climbs steadily to the Toubkal Refuge at 3,207 m — a place of steaming tea, heavy boots, and the smell of wood smoke. The second day begins before sunrise: a staccato rhythm of boots on scree, crossing seasonally swollen streams, then a final rocky ridge to 4,167 m and views that push south to the Sahara and north to the Rif.