Adventure Collective

Zaxxon at The Milkman's Wall: A Bold 5.10c Trad Testpiece in Squamish

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
trad
slab
crack
arete
single pitch
Green C3
Murrin Park
Squamish
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Zaxxon
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Zaxxon delivers a focused 80-foot trad climb blending technical slab moves and precise crack placements. With a crux requiring a delicate Green C3 cam on an exposed arete, this route challenges both body and mind amidst the tranquil forests of Murrin Park."

Zaxxon at The Milkman's Wall: A Bold 5.10c Trad Testpiece in Squamish

Zaxxon stands as a striking challenge on The Milkman's Wall, a renowned slab crag tucked within the rugged enclave of Murrin Park. This single-pitch trad route measures roughly 80 feet of delicate, technical climbing that pushes your precision and mental focus. From the moment you step off the ground, the climb demands smooth footwork and careful gear placements amid slab angles and subtle features. The low bolt at the start offers a reassuring intro, but the true test unfolds as you navigate past a fixed pin positioned to your left before reaching the crux—a barely-there crack hugging an arete. This thin seam calls for a Green C3 cam placement to gain purchase and trust your fingers as you pull over the bulge. Beyond, the slab beckons, requiring balance and patience as you ascend to the anchors.

The Milkman's Wall is set within Squamish’s diverse climbing landscape, famed for its granite slab routes that combine vertical subtlety with crack climbing nuances. Here, the rock feels alive under your fingertips, encouraging a keen eye to read each hold and a steady heart to commit fully despite exposure. The climb takes place on mostly clean granite, with modest fixed hardware balanced by traditional protection opportunities.

Planning your ascent on Zaxxon means preparing for a moderate approach: a short trek through forested terrain that unfolds the quiet wilderness setting of Murrin Park. The trail is well-marked, and the climb’s latitude brings a cooling coastal vibe that can warm with midday sun, ideal for a spring to early fall adventure. Good footwear—sticky yet supportive shoes—will make clipping gear into small cracks easier and keep your feet confident on the slab. Bring a standard trad rack including small cams up to a Green C3 for the crux, along with slings to extend placements.

This route provides a fulfilling day out for trad climbers who appreciate technical slab and are seeking a moderate 5.10 challenge near Squamish town. The single pitch format keeps the climb accessible for an afternoon session, allowing you to savor the granite’s character without a long-haul commitment. Between the focused moves and the quiet hum of the surrounding forest, Zaxxon offers a rewarding balance of adventure and practicality.

Keep in mind that the protection bolts provide key security but cannot be fully relied upon—your trad placements must be confident and thoughtful. The crux crack is narrow and holds small gear, but it’s the mental grit to mantle the arete that tips the climb into memorable territory. Once on top, the anchors provide a solid belay station with sweeping views of the coastal mountains and the green forest canopy spilling below.

Approaching Zaxxon early in the day helps avoid warming slabs and keeps friction optimal. Remember to carry plenty of water, as the shaded forest may disguise your thirst. This route is a fantastic introduction to Squamish slab trad climbing and offers seasoned climbers a neat project in a classic setting, demanding precision and composure in equal measure.

Climber Safety

While there are two bolts for security and one fixed pin, much of the protection relies on well-placed traditional gear. Be mindful that the crack is narrow, so gear placement can be challenging, and the slab’s smoothness increases the risk of a slip if footing slips. Staying focused on footwork and gear placements is essential.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Approach early to avoid heated slab conditions and maximize friction.

Bring a rack including small cams to medium sizes; tiny gear is crucial for the crux.

Wear shoes with excellent grip for slab footing and crack jamming.

Hydrate adequately—forest shade can mask your thirst during the climb.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10c rating on Zaxxon is spot-on, with a crux that feels just a touch harder due to the exposed arete and thin crack requiring precise gear placement. Unlike some slab climbs that feel airy but moderate, this route demands both technical skill and mental commitment, aligning with harder mid-grade slab climbs in Squamish.

Gear Requirements

This route requires a traditional rack with small to medium cams, notably a Green C3 sized cam for the crux crack, coupled with two bolts and a fixed pin. Extend your placements with slings to reduce rope drag on the slab sections.

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Tags

trad
slab
crack
arete
single pitch
Green C3
Murrin Park
Squamish