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Wrinkle in Time: A Compact Classic in the St. Vrain Canyons

Lyons, Colorado USA
finger crack
positive holds
single pitch
light rack
flake
Colorado
St. Vrain Canyon
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Wrinkle in Time
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Wrinkle in Time surprises with solid, textured climbing through a distinctive flake feature, all packed into a concise 100-foot pitch. Its approachable grade and straightforward protection make it a great step for trad climbers exploring the St. Vrain Canyons."

Wrinkle in Time: A Compact Classic in the St. Vrain Canyons

Wrinkle in Time offers a deceptively straightforward climb that rewards those willing to look beyond the surface. Situated in the rugged folds of The Coliseum, this single-pitch trad route tests your technique and route-finding skills on a compact 100-foot line. As you begin, the rock's texture feels solid and inviting, while small plants scattered along the way hint at the route’s natural integration with its surroundings—nothing to block your path, only to remind you that this climb lives within an active landscape. The climb culminates in what appears to be a daunting slot near the top, but it quickly reveals itself as a series of positive holds that invite a confident layback or delicate fingerlocks. This flake-shaped feature welcomes gear sized around a second knuckle or medium cams, making protection straightforward though requiring attention to placement.

From the top of the slot, your options open up: you can either move onto lower-angled rock to the right and back or tackle jagged cracks leading left and upward toward the summit. The climbing here combines solid friction with well-protected moves, ideal for climbers who appreciate a concise but varied trad experience. The route’s 5.9- rating suggests accessible challenge without undue intimidation, making it a fine pick for climbers hoping to sharpen their crack skills in an iconic Colorado setting.

St. Vrain Canyon’s limestone here carries both texture and history, with the route’s position offering views of forested slopes above and the canyon’s steep walls below. The approach through South Fork offers a scenic walk that wets your appetite with fresh mountain air and hints of granite and pine. A light rack is all you need—there’s no demand for wide cams despite the slot’s appearance—so packing stays simple and streamlined.

Timing your climb for mid-morning or afternoon balances sun exposure and cooler temps, as the southern-facing walls can warm up quickly. The descent is straightforward, following established rappel routes similar to nearby climbs, allowing for a smooth exit without scrambling hazards. Wrinkle in Time is a rewarding venture for trad climbers looking to combine solid technical moves with a connected sense of place—offering nature’s challenge alongside clear, practical beta to get you there and back with confidence.

Climber Safety

While protection is straightforward, pay close attention to placements inside the slot; gear can be shallow and needs precise placement. Vegetation along the route poses no major obstacle but may hide subtle footholds—move deliberately. Always verify rappel anchors to ensure a safe descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Approach through South Fork trailhead—expect a moderate 20-minute walk on a well-marked path.

Shoot for climbing mid-morning or afternoon to avoid harsh midday sun on the southern walls.

Bring tape or gloves for comfortably handling the slot's fingerlocks and layback flake moves.

Rappel anchors are shared with nearby Hollow Man; double-check gear before descending.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- rating feels approachable with few intense cruxes, making Wrinkle in Time a solid pick for climbers refining crack technique. The flake near the top adds a bit of technical interest without ramping up the difficulty significantly, so it reads as on the softer side of 5.9 challenges. Compared with other South Fork climbs, it strikes a nice balance of exposure and protection.

Gear Requirements

A standard light rack covers all protection needs here; the narrow slot near the top doesn’t require big cams, with good placements for second knuckle-sized gear or medium cams.

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Tags

finger crack
positive holds
single pitch
light rack
flake
Colorado
St. Vrain Canyon