5.10+, Sport
Monterrey
Nuevo Leon ,Mexico
"Wright of Passage carves a manageable yet engaging two-pitch ascent up Tami's Pillar, blending straightforward sport climbing with deliberate moves on slightly loose limestone. Ideal for climbers looking to push into El Potrero Chico’s steeper terrain, this route balances adventure with solid protection."
Wright of Passage offers climbers a direct route to the summit of Tami's Pillar, standing out as one of the more approachable sport climbs in El Potrero Chico’s dramatic landscape. This two-pitch route climbs roughly 140 feet of rugged rock, threading a line just left of the pillar’s crumbling edges. The rock here carries a slightly loose character, which calls for steady footwork and careful hand placements, reminding climbers to stay alert without diluting the route’s appeal. The first pitch challenges you to push upward on a heady sequence that leans into the pillar’s vertical face, while the protection is reassuringly bolted throughout, reassuring climbers despite the chossy patches.
After establishing position on the pinnacle's small summit ledge, the second pitch guides you up a pronounced arete, a spine of limestone carved over millennia, edging you toward the true peak. The final stretch covers 20 additional feet to the anchor point, where sweeping views of El Potrero Chico’s rugged ridgelines stretch out beneath a typically brilliant northern Mexico sky. Along the climb, the sun alternates between high peaks and narrow canyons, warming the limestone and teasing out the scent of dry desert flora.
Accessing Wright of Passage means stepping into the larger realm of Plum Wall—a climbing area known for its striking limestone walls that rise sharply from the canyon floor. The approach is short by El Potrero standards but demands focus; the trail blends loose rock with scattered desert vegetation, requiring sturdy shoes suited for quick footing. Adequate hydration is essential here, especially on warmer days when the midday sun intensifies.
Though rated 5.10+, this route offers a bit more than the number suggests. The climbing is straightforward but will push intermediate climbers with a crux situated in the delicate footwork on the first pitch. Climbing at times softens with the bolted security, yet the unstable patches inject a modest level of anxiety that heightens concentration and rewards patience with smooth upward movement. Wright of Passage fits well alongside nearby classic routes, providing a solid stepping stone for those working into El Potrero’s steeper grades.
Before heading out, climbers should inspect the anchors for any signs of wear—while the fixed hardware is generally reliable, the choss surrounding some bolts can be questionable. Weather-wise, late winter to early spring often guarantees the best conditions; the cooler air and less intense sun make the limestone easier to grasp. Late summer climbs risk overheating and dusty, crumbly holds as the dry season peaks.
Descending from the top involves a double rappel down the route itself or a short walk off on the adjacent ridge, both requiring attentive planning and setting up anchors with care. The descent path can be loose and exposed in sections, so avoid it if conditions feel unstable. Overall, Wright of Passage provides an engaging commitment to the top of Tami's Pillar with practical protection and a genuine taste of El Potrero Chico’s commanding vertical world.
Exercise caution around loose rock, especially near bolts and at ledge transitions. Inspect anchors thoroughly before committing. Avoid climbing immediately after rain, as the limestone can become slippery and unstable.
Start early to avoid midday heat and exposure on exposed limestone.
Double-check all bolts and anchor points due to occasional choss near placements.
Wear sturdy shoes with sticky rubber; delicate footwork is key on loose rock.
Carry plenty of water and sun protection; the canyon offers little shade.
Fully bolted route with reliable anchors atop Tami's Pillar. Standard sport climbing rack recommended. Moderate loose rock demands careful clipping to avoid gear damage. Quickdraws and a 60m rope will suffice for both pitches.
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