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Whole Lotta Sober

Denver, Colorado United States
trad crack
small crimps
overhang
single pitch
moderate runout
dry rock
south facing
technical
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Whole Lotta Sober
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Whole Lotta Sober is a sharp, technical 40-foot trad climb at The Training Grounds, offering attentive movement on small crimps and solid pro placements. Ideal for climbers refining trad skills, it features a clean line left of "Too Much Nooky" with reliable friction and a modest 5.9- rating."

Whole Lotta Sober

Whole Lotta Sober stands out at The Training Grounds as a sharp, focused trad climb that tests both finesse and composure on modest rock features. This single-pitch, 40-foot route invites climbers to trace a line just left of the bolt-protected "Too Much Nooky," following fractured blocks and subtle holds that demand attentive movement rather than brute strength. The climb starts with a delicate sequence on small crimps through a weakness beneath a prominent overhang, requiring precise footwork and steady balance to link moves smoothly toward the top anchors where the familiar chains of "Too Much Nooky" await.

The Training Grounds itself is carved into the rugged outcrops near Devil's Head, offering a dry, sunlit wall surrounded by ponderosa pine and open skies. The rock is coarse, providing reliable friction, but the protection is straightforward—a well-chosen set of cams fits neatly into cracks and pockets if placed thoughtfully. This route’s moderately challenging 5.9- PG13 rating reflects a technical crux that’s approachable but demands respect, especially since the fall zone can be runout in places and the pro relies on solid placements rather than fixed bolts.

Approaching Whole Lotta Sober is a short and accessible trek from the main trailhead, with a clearly marked footpath that winds through sandy soil and low, scrubby vegetation. Climbers benefit from starting early to catch cooler morning light and avoid the afternoon sun beating down on the south-facing walls. As the day warms, a gentle breeze weaves through the pines, lending cool relief and carrying the scent of dry earth and pine needles. This setting makes it easy to focus on technique and rhythm while the landscape hums softly around you.

For climbers seeking to sharpen their trad skills in a controlled ground-up environment, Whole Lotta Sober offers a concise yet satisfying line. Its reliance on small cams encourages careful gear selection and confidence in placements, while the climb’s modest length invites repeated attempts or a leisurely day of climbing nearby routes. The proximity to Denver and the South Platte area makes The Training Grounds a go-to for locals and visitors ready to fine-tune their crack and face climbing skills without the commitment of a multi-pitch expedition.

Gear selection should center on a standard trad rack focusing on smaller cams to protect the thin cracks encountered throughout the route. Solid footwear with sticky rubber improves grip on tiny edges and abrasive rock. Hydration and sun protection are necessary essentials, especially during warmer months when shade is limited. Timing your climb outside the midday heat maximizes comfort and performance.

Whether you’re stepping up from sport climbing or honing trad techniques, Whole Lotta Sober challenges and rewards with a pure, engaging sequence where every hold and placement counts. The climb’s blend of technical moves and straightforward protection delivers a practical adventure, carved clean on Colorado’s quiet sandstone walls.

Climber Safety

Watch your gear placements carefully under the overhang to avoid any larger falls; some pro spots demand experience in evaluating marginal cams. The rock is solid but the fall zone tight, making controlled movements critical.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon sun on the south-facing wall.

Bring a standard trad rack with emphasis on smaller cams.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber for better grip on small edges.

Hydrate well and use sun protection; shade is limited.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9- PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- rating feels approachable but leans on technical precision rather than raw power. The PG13 tag highlights potential runouts that require steady nerves and careful gear placement. Compared to nearby climbs, it offers a slightly more engaging crux with less reliance on bolts and more emphasis on trusting cams.

Gear Requirements

A set of cams covers the protection needs perfectly; small to medium sizes are essential to secure placements under the overhang and throughout the route.

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Tags

trad crack
small crimps
overhang
single pitch
moderate runout
dry rock
south facing
technical