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Wet Pigeon: Classic Trad Climb on Atlantis Wall

Twentynine Palms, California United States
crack climb
moderate trad
single pitch
east facing
Joshua Tree
desert
chockstone
protected
short approach
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Wet Pigeon
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Wet Pigeon is a straightforward trad climb on Joshua Tree’s Atlantis Wall, perfect for crack enthusiasts seeking a solid moderate challenge. This crisp 70-foot pitch weaves through cracks and bulges, balancing technique with accessible desert exposure."

Wet Pigeon: Classic Trad Climb on Atlantis Wall

Wet Pigeon offers an accessible yet engaging single-pitch trad climb on the sandstone faces of Joshua Tree’s Atlantis Wall, perfect for climbers seeking a straightforward crack climb with just enough technical touches to keep things interesting. This 70-foot route begins just five feet right of the well-known Men with Cow's Heads formation, marked by a clean crack running vertically through the rock. Early moves are comfortably moderate, allowing you to find your rhythm as you approach a distinct triangular chockstone roughly ten feet off the deck. Reaching this feature is often considered the key milestone of the climb—the crux lies just beyond it.

From here, the route requires careful footwork and body positioning. After threading past the chockstone, step onto a ledge before tackling a bulge protected by a left-hand crack that demands steady, precise hand jams and balance. Above the bulge, the climb zigzags with a challenging transfer from the left side of the crack to the right, forcing you to engage both mental and physical focus. Once past this transition, the top is a short, confident push away, topping out on a solid ledge that rewards with sweeping views across the Lost Horse Area.

Joshua Tree’s dry desert air fills your lungs as the rock’s rough texture insures secure holds and reliable friction beneath your fingertips and feet. The climb feels like a conversation with the rock—each jam receptive but firm, offering protection and reward in equal measure. The familiar crunch of desert shrubs stirs in the breeze below, while distant cacti stand sentry over the vast landscape. The climb’s modest grade invites both newer trad climbers looking to gain crack technique experience and veterans wanting a reliable pitch for a leisurely afternoon.

Protection is straightforward and secure: small to medium cams and nuts fit into the crack system easily, and a large boulder set about 10 feet back from the edge serves as a natural anchor when slung. This feature adds a reassuring layer of safety, making the top-out calm and uncomplicated. Because of the route’s accessible nature and proximity to parking areas, it’s highly recommended to start early to avoid midday heat, especially during the spring and fall when conditions are ideal.

The approach is a short, flat walk from the Lost Horse campground, following well-marked desert trails through sparse scrub and occasional boulders. The day’s sun shifts quickly here—plan for morning climbs to take advantage of cool shadows cast by this east-facing wall. After the climb, descending is straightforward by walking off the backside, avoiding the need for rappels and allowing you to soak in the late afternoon desert light on your walk back.

Wet Pigeon combines reliability, moderate difficulty, and classic Joshua Tree desert character, making it an excellent choice for trad climbers eager to engage with cracks and desert scenery in equal measure. Its simplicity paired with pockets of challenge creates a fulfilling experience that won’t overwhelm but will sharpen your trad instincts.

Climber Safety

Beware of loose rock near the triangular chockstone; test all holds and placements carefully. The top boulder used for an anchor is stable but beware of rope abrasion against its rough surface. Conditions can be very hot in summer—carry sufficient water and plan climbs in cooler hours to avoid heat stress.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the intense midday sun on this east-facing wall.

Wear gloves or tape your hands for jamming comfort in the abrasive sandstone.

Bring a rack focusing on small and medium cams; large gear is unnecessary here.

Approach via Lost Horse campground trail; the walk is short and mostly flat.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8- rating feels approachable yet offers real technical moments, especially around the triangular chockstone and subsequent bulge. While not physically demanding, the technical finesse required to move fluidly through the crack demands good jamming skills. This grade is on the softer side for a desert trad climb but expect a few key moves that complicate an otherwise moderate line. Compared to nearby routes, Wet Pigeon stands out as a solid introduction to Joshua Tree's crack climbing.

Gear Requirements

Core protection includes small to medium cams and nuts suited for the crack’s varying widths. A large boulder located about ten feet from the edge acts as a natural anchor when slung with a cordalette, making top protection secure and bomber.

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Tags

crack climb
moderate trad
single pitch
east facing
Joshua Tree
desert
chockstone
protected
short approach