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Vultures Feather: A Compact Sport Climb on Chezem Cliffs’ South Face

Eureka, California United States
sport climbing
roof crux
single pitch
Redwood Coast
small holds
Length: 50 ft
Type: Sport, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Vultures Feather
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Vultures Feather is a single-pitch sport climb on Chezem Cliffs’ south face that challenges climbers with a technical roof crux and rewarding friction on redwood-flavored rock. Ideal for climbers ready to engage small holds and perfect footwork in a quiet coastal setting."

Vultures Feather: A Compact Sport Climb on Chezem Cliffs’ South Face

Vultures Feather offers climbers a concise yet rewarding pitch right on the south face of Chezem Cliffs, part of California’s rugged Redwood Coast. From the moment you step onto the base, the rock’s texture invites you forward with a series of small holds and sloping footholds. The route begins on the left side of the cliff’s south exposure, starting with a confident move onto a solid stance that sets the tone for the climb. A short roof presents the crux, positioned prominently on the arete dividing the south and west faces. This brief but technical sequence challenges your balance and body positioning as you pull over to gain the upper section. Beyond this obstacle, the angle eases onto the west face where movement flows with less resistance, guiding you toward the two-bolt anchor shared with the neighboring route, The Phobia.

This climb is ideal for those looking to sharpen their sport climbing skills in a quiet, less-traveled setting. The rock exhibits characteristic Redwood Coast grit, providing reliable friction that rewards precise footwork and steady hands. The single pitch stretches about 50 feet, compact but demanding enough to test climbers at the 5.8- level without overstaying its welcome. With eight bolts and a secure two-bolt anchor equipped with rappel rings, protection is straightforward and reassuring, reducing the mental load as you focus on movement.

Approaching Chezem Cliffs requires navigating forested trails where the scent of pine and the distant roar of the Pacific set a peaceful, adventurous backdrop. The climbing area is remote and wild, far from the buzz of urban life, offering solitude alongside breathtaking views. For timing, morning light catches the south face just right here, warming the rock for comfortable climbing during cooler months. Summer afternoons may bring warmth but expect breezes rolling in from the coast to temper the heat.

Gear recommendations center on quickdraws for the bolted line and standard sport climbing footwear with sticky soles. Bring water and sun protection; the approach trail and the cliff offer little shade midday. Route beta emphasizes smooth, deliberate movements, particularly when tackling the roof crux—don’t rush the sequence, as holding control here ensures confident transition onto easier climbing above.

For the descent, the rappel from the anchor is clean and straightforward, requiring a standard 60-meter rope. Alternatively, some may prefer a careful downclimb to the base, but caution is advised as terrain below can be uneven and covered in loose debris.

Vultures Feather may not boast extensive length or vertical grandeur, but it casts a compelling challenge for those eager to test technique on natural features that demand both focus and finesse. It’s a gateway climb on the Redwood Coast, blending adventure with practical climbing experience in a striking coastal wilderness setting.

Climber Safety

While protection is solid with bolts placed consistently, the roof crux requires confident movement—hesitating here can increase physical strain and risk. Loose debris can cover parts of the descent path, so exercise caution when downclimbing or approaching the base.

Route Details

TypeSport, TR
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Approach via forested trail off Highway 101; expect about a 30-minute hike to base.

Morning light warms the south face nicely, making early starts ideal for cooler days.

Bring at least two liters of water, as shade is limited near the climb.

Check anchors for wear before descent, especially the rappel rings.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8-
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.8-, Vultures Feather sits in an accessible difficulty range but the roof crux adds a technical spike that pushes the climb’s challenge beyond basic scrambling. This route is a solid introduction to sustained intermediate single-pitch sport climbs found along the Redwood Coast, softer than some of the nearby harder routes but with a definite move that testers and eager followers will appreciate.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by eight bolts and finishes at a two-bolt anchor with rappel rings, making it well-equipped for sport climbers. Quickdraws suffice for protection, and firm climbing shoes are recommended to navigate the small holds and sloping feet.

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Tags

sport climbing
roof crux
single pitch
Redwood Coast
small holds