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Voodoo Trance: Sport Climbing Through La Selva’s Vertical Jungle

Nuevo Leon, Mexico
multi-pitch
sport climbing
limestone
5.10
El Potrero Chico
rhythmic
split pitch variation
La Selva jungle
Length: 600 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
6
Location
Voodoo Trance
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Voodoo Trance tests climbers with a sustained six-pitch journey through La Selva’s jungle-fringed limestone walls. With a natural rhythm of moderate to hard pitches and a distinctive split at pitch four, this line offers both challenge and immersion in Northern Mexico’s rugged beauty."

Voodoo Trance: Sport Climbing Through La Selva’s Vertical Jungle

Voodoo Trance offers an energetic climb weaving through the dense rock faces of La Selva’s Jungle Wall in El Potrero Chico, Northern Mexico. This six-pitch sport route extends over 600 feet, presenting a layered challenge that gradually shifts from moderate to demanding terrain. Beginning with pitches rated mostly around 5.9, the climb steadily builds intensity toward the middle pitches, peaking at a 5.10c section that tests both technique and stamina. Climbers find themselves navigating a physical puzzle of pockets, edges, and overhangs, framed by the vibrant green of the jungle’s edge that presses close to the vertical stone. The wall’s limestone throat feels alive—sunlight filters through leaves, casting shifting shadows that spur on rhythm and focus.

The route splits on the fourth pitch, offering two lines: the right branch offers a bold 5.11b variation with a steeper, pumpier sequence that demands commitment and precise bolt-to-bolt movement, while the left side stays in the 5.10b range, slightly more forgiving but no less engaging. Above, lower-angle sections ease off tensions but still require careful footwork on grippy limestone. The anchors are bolted for safety convenience, and each pitch is protected by roughly a dozen bolts. The climb moves through changes in texture and angle, each length inviting climbers to adapt their style — from smearing and edging to more dynamic clip placements.

El Potrero Chico’s environment carries the raw energy of Northern Mexico’s rugged wilderness. The heat and humidity of La Selva can play a role in endurance, especially as the sun climbs over the wall. Early morning starts are recommended to avoid the height of the day’s heat and to enjoy cooler, crisper air among the foliage. The proximity of the jungle contributes sounds—bird calls, the rustling of leaves stirred by breeze—creating an immersive soundtrack that connects the climber to the wild beyond the rock.

Preparation is key: lightweight gear packs, efficient clipping strategies, and strong endurance will make for a smooth ascent. The route’s moderate length combined with a mix of mid-10s difficulty suits climbing pairs looking for sustained multi-pitch challenges without committing to extreme technical grades. Hydration strategies are critical, given the dry climate below and forest humidity above. Footwear with precise edging capability enhances control on the varied limestone features.

Beyond the climb, the access trail is well established, offering a relatively straightforward approach that takes about 20 minutes from the main parking area, trailing through mixed flora and open terrain before reaching the jungle edge. Once on the wall, a careful retreat involves a series of bolted rappels, with anchors clearly marked and fixed for safety. Descent requires steady attention; the ropes peel away into the jungle’s green depths, inviting reflection on the climb’s physical and mental demands.

Voodoo Trance isn’t just a climb — it’s an encounter with La Selva’s vertical pulse, demanding respect for the rock and the environment. This route rewards focus and steady progress, inspiring climbers to trust their skills while immersing themselves in one of Mexico’s premier sport climbing destinations.

Climber Safety

Watch out for sun exposure and heat buildup during the day; the jungle edge provides limited shade on certain pitches. Anchors are bolted but verify all gear before the lead. The descent rappels lead back through vegetated terrain with loose rocks—proceed with caution and check rope security at each anchor.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches6
Length600 feet

Local Tips

Start early in the morning to avoid the wall’s peak heat and humidity.

Bring plenty of water; La Selva’s microclimate can be deceptively draining.

Focus on efficient clipping and conserving pump around the mid-pitch cruxes.

Use sticky soled shoes for diverse limestone features from slabs to overhangs.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10b/c
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10b/c, Voodoo Trance offers a well-rounded challenge that feels comfortably progressive through the first pitches. The climbing stiffens on pitch three and four, especially the right variation at 5.11b, which provides a definite pumpy crux requiring solid power and clipping confidence. For those familiar with El Potrero Chico’s classic lines, this route offers a moderate step above mid-grade sport climbs in the area.

Gear Requirements

Each pitch is protected by approximately 12 bolts, with bolted anchors at each belay. The fourth pitch offers a bolt line variation for a harder 5.11b climb requiring precise movement. A standard sport rack suffices, focusing on quickdraws and comfortable clipping flow.

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Tags

multi-pitch
sport climbing
limestone
5.10
El Potrero Chico
rhythmic
split pitch variation
La Selva jungle