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Voodoo Amour: The Roof Crack Above Whirlwind

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
roof crack
multi-pitch
trad gear
overhang
granite
Squamish
long exposure
technical crack
Length: 600 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
7
Location
Voodoo Amour
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Voodoo Amour is a demanding seven-pitch trad climb that rides a dramatic roof crack above Whirlwind, offering a technical, sustained challenge. This route blends bold crack climbing with Squamish’s characteristic granite exposure and breathtaking valley views."

Voodoo Amour: The Roof Crack Above Whirlwind

Voodoo Amour stands out on the rugged granite face of The Apron in Squamish, British Columbia, offering climbers a bold seven-pitch trad challenge that winds through a jaw-dropping roof crack. This route carves its path across the 'visor,' a distinctive overhanging prow sticking out above the legendary Whirlwind climb. From the first pitch to the last, the climb demands power, precision, and calm under sustained difficulty.

Beginning with an approach that can vary between ascending Snake or Whirlwind, you maneuver through carefully chosen moves to reach the base of the overhanging corner crack. The approach itself involves a technical slab traverse to a solitary tree, signaling the start of something truly special. Here, the character shifts from warm-up to test-piece as p1 (5.10c) unleashes steep crack climbing that threads through the overhang before settling into a snug alcove with a gear belay.

Pitch two immediately calls for your full attention: the iconic 5.11d roof crack defies gravity and endurance. Protectable with a mix of cams and bolts, this section pushes climbers out onto the lip, requiring them to commit to powerful hand jams and delicate foot placements. The crack feels alive, daring you to force your body through its demanding curve. Scrambling or climbing further leads you to the Broadway Ledge descent, a perfect spot to rest and soak in stunning views of the Squamish Valley.

Overall, Voodoo Amour mixes fiendish crack climbing with the broad granite walls and rugged beauty typical of Squamish. It’s a route that rewards preparation: bring a full range of Camalots (.4 to 2 doubled, a single #3, and optionally a #4) for precise protection placement through tricky sequences. Be ready for sustained difficulty across 600 feet and seven pitches, with route-finding that challenges you to stay sharp.

This line demands respect, but delivers a taste of Squamish’s epic granite and the thrilling exposure of climbing long, steep, and bold cracks. Timing your climb to avoid afternoon sun helps keep hands fresh on the polished granite, while being ready for quick descent via Broadway Ledge makes the exit smooth. Whether you’re attacking it as a major project or savoring each pitch’s distinct personality, Voodoo Amour stands as a test-piece in the heart of British Columbia’s legendary climbing landscape.

Climber Safety

Watch your feet on the slab traverse during the approach, as polished granite can be slippery when wet. Protection placements in the roof crack require careful sizing, so bring duplicates of smaller cams to ensure secure anchors. Avoid climbing after rain and be mindful of loose rock near the alcove belay stations.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches7
Length600 feet

Local Tips

Approach via Snake or Whirlwind; the leftward slab traverse on Snake accesses the route’s base efficiently.

Climb early in the day to avoid heated granite sections and maximize grip on polished hand jams.

Double up smaller Camalots (.4 to 2) to protect critical roof sections safely.

Use Broadway Ledge for a straightforward and secure descent following the climb.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.11d rating on Voodoo Amour feels precise rather than inflated, with a crux located on the demanding roof crack pitch. Climbers should expect sustained, challenging finger and hand jams well protected by a blend of cams and bolts. Compared to other Squamish classics like Whirlwind, this is a stiffer, more pumpy test-piece with a physical roof that separates confident crack climbers from the rest.

Gear Requirements

Camalots ranging from .4 to 2 should be doubled, include a single #3 and optionally a #4. Combination of gear and bolts protect the roof crack. Bring additional gear for the approach pitches.

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Tags

roof crack
multi-pitch
trad gear
overhang
granite
Squamish
long exposure
technical crack