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Voldy Having A Coldy: A Bold Trad Challenge in the Kootenays

Nelson, British Columbia Canada
trad crack
roof crux
bolted anchor
single pitch
technical
Kootenays
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Voldy Having A Coldy
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"This demanding single-pitch trad climb in British Columbia’s Kootenays rewards precise crack technique and thoughtful gear placements. Featuring a sharp roof crux secured by a bolted anchor, Voldy Having A Coldy blends an immersive setting with a stiff 5.11+ challenge."

Voldy Having A Coldy: A Bold Trad Challenge in the Kootenays

Voldy Having A Coldy stands out as a single-pitch trad climb that commands both focus and finesse amid the rugged backdrop of British Columbia’s Kootenays West region. From your starting point, you’re immediately drawn into a compelling vertical crack line that beckons with a mix of technical moves and solid protection opportunities. The climb offers an uncommon feature—a roof that tests your ability to read the rock and position your body precisely, with a bolted anchor waiting at the top to secure your belay.

Approaching the route, you have the unique option to belay from a boat or dinghy in the water below or build your anchor on expansive ledges that provide a comfortable stance. The crack itself moves steadily upward, demanding clean technique and careful gear placements. The heart of the route arrives as you near the roof, where a well-placed #0.5 cam combined with a shallow #1 offers reliable security before tackling the committing move to pull over the roof’s lip.

Set in a remote corner of the Kootenays, this climb blends the thrill of traditional protection with a wild setting that feels far removed from crowded crags. The surrounding environment pulls you into the cool, fresh air of British Columbia’s mountainous terrain, while the river nearby softly hums, challenging you to rise above its currents with deliberate steadiness.

For climbers who crave pure trad movement, Voldy Having A Coldy offers a compact but intense experience. It demands solid gear judgment, precise footwork, and mental readiness for the key crux. Make no mistake, the 5.11+ rating reflects the route’s stiffness, where a careful sequence is necessary to overcome the roof’s bulge. Yet the satisfaction of standing on the summit ledge, overlooking this wild stretch of the Kootenays, rewards that effort fully.

Preparation is key: a rack that includes cams sized around #0.5, #1, and #4 will cover the protection needs, while a bolted anchor ensures a safe and straightforward top belay. Bringing along shoes with sticky rubber and practicing crack climbing techniques will smooth the ascent. Timing your climb for the late spring to early fall months maximizes dry rock conditions and pleasant weather.

This route quietly challenges those who pass by, offering an unpolished gem for the adventurous soul looking to sharpen their trad skills in a setting that is raw and invigorating. Whether you arrive by water or land, Voldy Having A Coldy demands respect, focus, and trust between climber and rock—a visceral test of your ability to move with intention in an untamed slice of the West Kootenays.

Climber Safety

Watch for slippery ledges if approaching from the river side, and confirm all gear placements before committing to the roof pull. The rock is generally solid, but the key move requires steadiness and focus.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Secure your belay either from a dinghy or solid ledges at the base.

Focus on smooth cam placements around the roof section to maintain confidence.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber to handle the crack’s subtle edges.

Plan your climb for late spring through early fall for reliable dry rock.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11+
Quality
Consensus:The 5.11+ rating is firm and fitting for the route's demanding roof move, where balance and strength merge. Compared to other traditions climbs in the area, this route leans toward the higher end of difficulty for a single pitch, requiring well-practiced crack skills and careful gear placement.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack focusing on cams sized #0.5, #1, and #4. The route features a bolted anchor at the top for secure belaying.

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Tags

trad crack
roof crux
bolted anchor
single pitch
technical
Kootenays