HomeClimbingVoie de John

Voie de John: A Classic Slab Trad Route in Quebec’s Laurentians

Val-David, Canada
trad crack
slabby
single pitch
forested approach
east facing
moderate
jamming
stemming
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Voie de John
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Voie de John offers a crisp, single-pitch trad climb in Quebec’s Laurentians, blending slab finesse with crack techniques. Perfect for climbers sharpening their fundamentals while soaking in quiet forest surroundings."

Voie de John: A Classic Slab Trad Route in Quebec’s Laurentians

Voie de John invites climbers to engage with a straightforward yet rewarding single-pitch trad climb set amid the quiet wilderness of Quebec’s Laurentian Mountains. This 80-foot route unspools over a slabby flake that challenges your footwork and balance before leading to a solid ledge. From there, a clean dihedral beckons, demanding jamming and stemming techniques that push your body into a rhythmic flow with the rock. The finishing sequence calls for a subtle rightward traverse onto gentler terrain skirting a prominent boulder, easing you down to the endpoint with a sense of accomplishment.

The approach leads adventurers through changing forest landscapes that shift from gentle undergrowth to older, sturdier pines, allowing the natural world around you to settle your mind before the climb. The granite’s smooth texture offers reliable friction, vital on the slab sections where confident edging and mindful foot placement matter most. Protection is straightforward yet requires attentive placement: gear up to Camalot size 2 to shield the key jams and stems safely.

Situated in the Mont-Césaire area just a short distance from the village of Val-David, this route presents an accessible foray into trad climbing for those mastering fundamentals or looking for a chill, technical adventure in a peaceful setting. The Laurentians’ fresh air mingles with subtle bird calls and the distant hum of seasonal breezes, turning this climb into a brief retreat from the everyday.

Plan your climb in late spring through early fall to avoid icy patches and ensure dry rock conditions. The wall faces east, catching morning sun that warms the granite quickly but offers shade by afternoon, reducing heat stress on sunny days. Footwear with nimble edging capabilities and a solid sense of balance will pay off here, and carrying extra chalk can keep your hands sure through the crux moves inside the dihedral.

The descent is uncomplicated, with most parties opting for a confident downclimb along low-angle slabs moving right of the upper boulder. Be mindful of loose rock near the landing area and watch for slippery patches when damp. Whether you’re aiming to fine-tune your crack techniques or simply craving a crisp climb in a serene forested enclave, Voie de John stands ready to deliver a clean, focused challenge with practical beta and timeless appeal.

Climber Safety

Be wary of loose rock near the top traverse and the boulder at the finish. Pay close attention to gear placements in the dihedral—Camalot size 2 covers the critical protection, but careful placement is key to avoid any hazards during the traverse.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Approach the climb through forest trails that may be muddy in spring; waterproof shoes help.

Start early to benefit from morning sun warming the east-facing slab.

Bring extra chalk for the jam-intensive dihedral section to maintain hand grip.

Downclimb carefully on low-angle slabs and watch for loose rock near the base boulder.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6
Quality
Consensus:At 5.6, Voie de John stands as a solid moderate route that challenges with slab and crack techniques harmoniously. The grade is consistent with the moves’ difficulty; the crux within the dihedral demands reliable jamming and stemming rather than pure strength or endurance, making it feel fair but engaging. Compared to nearby Laurentian routes, this one leans on balance and technique over raw power.

Gear Requirements

Pro placements up to Camalot size 2 are essential for securing the crack and dihedral sections. The slab portion generally offers good friction but requires careful footwork without gear placements.

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Tags

trad crack
slabby
single pitch
forested approach
east facing
moderate
jamming
stemming