HomeClimbingVeuve noire

Veuve noire at Lac Blanc

Lac Blanc, Canada
trad
single pitch
fine edges
mixed protection
west-facing
foot precision
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Veuve noire
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Veuve noire delivers a compact trad challenge with a mix of precise gear placements and well-bolted climbing on a sun-exposed face. Set on Lac Blanc’s left end, it’s a climb that demands focus while unfolding stunning views of Quebec’s rugged terrain."

Veuve noire at Lac Blanc

Veuve noire commands attention along the left end of Lac Blanc, offering a sharp, single-pitch trad route that challenges climbers with precise gear placements before easing into a well-bolted finish. The climb kicks off with a delicate sequence requiring careful hand and footwork to find reliable protection amidst otherwise solid rock. From there, the bolts take over, smoothing the path up a clean, exposed face that catches both sunlight and wind as it climbs. This route invites you to engage actively with the rock—each move calibrated and deliberate—while rewarding your effort with sweeping views of the Lac Blanc basin, a mix of calm water and rugged granite ridges that push the pace of the ascent.

The climb sits within the wider Les Contreforts expanse of Lanaudiere, Quebec, where forest edges brush against stark cliffs, and the air carries a fresh, pine-scented crispness. It’s a spot that balances solitude with accessibility—close enough to the nearby towns and trails but far enough to hold a quiet aura for climbers seeking focus and flow.

Although short in length, Veuve noire demands respect and planning. Its initial mixed protection section asks for a solid rack with a range of trad gear, as bolts are sparse in the first moves. Once past this, the fixed anchors ensure a more confident push toward the top. Dry conditions are key, as the granite can feel slippery when damp, especially during spring thaw or fall rains.

Getting here means following a well-trodden approach path through light forest, about 10 minutes from the main parking area. The route’s west-facing wall catches afternoon sun, making late morning to early afternoon ideal for climbing, when the rock is warmed but not overheated. Mid-summer offers stable weather, but shoulder seasons bring quieter crowds and crisp air, perfect for those comfortable with brisk conditions.

Gear up with a standard trad rack emphasizing small to medium cams for those technical first placements, plus a helmet—rocks can loosen in this active area. Shoes with solid edging performance will help you stick those precise foot holds. Bring water and snacks, and plan your timing around daylight to enjoy the descent safely by downclimbing—a straightforward but exposed walk down the face.

Veuve noire may not boast sprawling length, but its blend of finger-slide placements, bolt-led security, and scenic openness crafts a climb that’s both accessible to confident trad climbers and rewarding on the senses. It’s a sharp slice of Quebec’s climbing offerings that calls for intention and respect, resting in a landscape that dares you outward and upward with every step.

Climber Safety

The start of the climb includes some comparatively loose rock and tricky gear placements—take care with pro and helmet use. The granite can become slick in wet conditions, so avoid climbing after rain or during spring thaw to reduce risk.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Check weather; granite slippery when wet especially after rains or spring thaw.

Best climbed late morning to early afternoon for optimal sun and warmth on the west-facing wall.

Wear climbing shoes with strong edging to navigate precise foot placements.

Bring helmet to protect from occasional loose rock near the base.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.11d grade here reflects a stiff crux early on where precise gear placements add mental challenge beyond pure technical difficulty. Once above the initial section, the climb settles into a more secure bolt-protected rhythm. Compared to nearby climbs, Veuve noire’s rating feels true to its sustained finger crack and face sequence that tests commitment and control.

Gear Requirements

Starts with several critical trad placements before transitioning to a fully bolted face. Bring a full rack focusing on small to medium cams and nuts.

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Tags

trad
single pitch
fine edges
mixed protection
west-facing
foot precision